I have a car to trade in that is 4 years old with 84,000 miles. KBB.com says it's trade-in value is $24,500. I am looking at another car for around $21,000.
Can you guys explain to me how this works? Will I trade in the $24,500 car and get the $21,000 car plus $4,500? Or do I take out a loan? Can you even trade in a car for another used car?
Thanks.Trade In A Car For Another Car?
DO NOT tell the dealer that has the car you want that the car you are looking to get is less than your trade in. Don't tell them you are certain you are trading in your car first. Tell them you already have financing approved through your bank and that you want to test drive this new car. Then negotiate that car alone. If they ask if you will be trading in, tell them you are not sure, but you want to worry about only one thing at a time. Try to negotiate much lower than they are wanting for that new one. Then once you have came up to a good agreement on that, say you would like to see what they will give you for your trade in, just to see. They will come back lower than 24500. Tell them you already checked it out on KBB and you came up with 25000 and there is no way you will let it go for less. They will probably tell you they go by NADA, so check out the trade in on there too. I also look at Edmunds just to have all three adn I print them out and bring them with me in a folder so you can say RIGHT HERE..
If there is any left over, they will cut you a check you can take to your bank although they will do their damnedest to not have any extra. Also, have your trade in clean and looking nice when you bring it up there.Trade In A Car For Another Car?
It is all up to the dealer you work with, and they're always and only looking for their own advantage.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Should I sell my car?
I have a 1996 nissan 200sx in pretty good condition. On kbb.com it says it can sell for about $2300 after I fix the alternator, which I believe would cost around $300, and if the car has a clean history. The car has had a minor fender bender in the past and has failed 2 smog checks, but all the problems were fixed. I am not sure if this means that the car does not have a clean history, and if not, I am not sure how much this would affect the resale value of the car. Other than the alternator I'd say the car runs fine right now, but since it is an old car, I don't know how long it will be until I need another major repair. The car has 135,000 miles on it, has never had its clutch replaced, and it has beat up looking shocks. That's what I know to keep an eye on as of right now, but those things seem to be ok so far. I have an opportunity to get a solid $1500 for the car, as is, if I am willing to sell it soon. I am not sure if I should though. Also, I do not have the money to fix the alternator yet, and if I don't sell it, I am not sure when I will be able to get it fixed, but at the same time, I do not want to possibly get ripped off either by just selling it for just $1500, or possibly by buying another newer used car in the future that might have problems that I couldn't catch before buying it. Is it worth it to keep the car, or would you sell it?Should I sell my car?
16 year old nissanis worth about a grand.its not cherry or even in good shape/damaged etc
16 year old nissanis worth about a grand.its not cherry or even in good shape/damaged etc
1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
They want 1500 for it and its in great condition but the only thing thats got me is the mileage. 170,000 miles is alot. Do you think this would be okay as a beginner car?
Kellys Blue Book: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/honda/accor鈥?/a>1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
I bought my Accord with 11,000 miles on it and it has been the worst car I've ever owned...maybe you can look at some other makes. I think Honda's are all hype and not really as good as the reported information. I can't wait to get rid of my Accord
Be Careful!
I would offer no more than $1000-1200. This car has almost no trade-in value when you decide to upgrade in several years. It has no redeeming qualities except it's good on gas mileage and would be appropriate for in-the-neighborhood trips. I wouldn't take it on a long road trip because of the wear and tear on the vehicle.1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
eh, honestly i think it's too expensive. my brother got a 93 civic for his first car last year with 210k miles on it for like $100 and it's been running fine. i think it really just depends on how much you like it and how bad you want it in addition to how much you're willing to spend on it.
Offer 1200.1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
it should be fine my 96 accord has 240k and still runs like a champhelly hansen
Kellys Blue Book: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/honda/accor鈥?/a>1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
I bought my Accord with 11,000 miles on it and it has been the worst car I've ever owned...maybe you can look at some other makes. I think Honda's are all hype and not really as good as the reported information. I can't wait to get rid of my Accord
Be Careful!
I would offer no more than $1000-1200. This car has almost no trade-in value when you decide to upgrade in several years. It has no redeeming qualities except it's good on gas mileage and would be appropriate for in-the-neighborhood trips. I wouldn't take it on a long road trip because of the wear and tear on the vehicle.1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
eh, honestly i think it's too expensive. my brother got a 93 civic for his first car last year with 210k miles on it for like $100 and it's been running fine. i think it really just depends on how much you like it and how bad you want it in addition to how much you're willing to spend on it.
Offer 1200.1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
it should be fine my 96 accord has 240k and still runs like a champ
Should I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
Car: 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse FWD, Non-Turbo
Bought it for $1400 a week ago, ran good, new clutch was installed
Inexperienced son ruined the clutch, and probably the synchro for 1st and possibly 2nd gear.
$550 for new clutch installed
$400-500 for synchro kit, and $300-400 for labor: $700-$900 for new synchros.
A used tranny wouldn't cost much more
Could also use tires, and rear brakes, but to just get it working again it would cost $1250-1450.
KBB value is $1100, but if everything worked right I could easily sell car for $1700-1800.
Engine works fine (123,000 miles), and no other problems with the car, only problem with parting it out is that nobody I know could take out an engine or remove body parts properly, so it would have to be self removial which would limit the customers, and also their money.
Whats the value of this car with a bad clutch and tranny?
How would I get max value out of this car with my situation? I can't pull a lot of major parts, ecspecially the ones that would get me the most money.Should I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
I would part it out, craigslist or ebayShould I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
Call the salvage yards and see what they will give you for the car, my guess would be a couple of hundred at the most. Parting a car out is always problematic, this one isn't rare or in high demand so you aren't going to get a lot for the parts and you could be sitting on an eyesore for a year before your got enough money out of it to justify doing it in the first place. The only other option would be to just sell the car to someone who is willing to rebuild the trans and put a new clutch in it, you might get 500 for the car that way.
Bought it for $1400 a week ago, ran good, new clutch was installed
Inexperienced son ruined the clutch, and probably the synchro for 1st and possibly 2nd gear.
$550 for new clutch installed
$400-500 for synchro kit, and $300-400 for labor: $700-$900 for new synchros.
A used tranny wouldn't cost much more
Could also use tires, and rear brakes, but to just get it working again it would cost $1250-1450.
KBB value is $1100, but if everything worked right I could easily sell car for $1700-1800.
Engine works fine (123,000 miles), and no other problems with the car, only problem with parting it out is that nobody I know could take out an engine or remove body parts properly, so it would have to be self removial which would limit the customers, and also their money.
Whats the value of this car with a bad clutch and tranny?
How would I get max value out of this car with my situation? I can't pull a lot of major parts, ecspecially the ones that would get me the most money.Should I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
I would part it out, craigslist or ebayShould I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
Call the salvage yards and see what they will give you for the car, my guess would be a couple of hundred at the most. Parting a car out is always problematic, this one isn't rare or in high demand so you aren't going to get a lot for the parts and you could be sitting on an eyesore for a year before your got enough money out of it to justify doing it in the first place. The only other option would be to just sell the car to someone who is willing to rebuild the trans and put a new clutch in it, you might get 500 for the car that way.
How low to offer on a used 350z?
Im in the market for a Nissan 350z (2003-2005) with the miles preferably below 60k, up to 80-90k max.
I did some research on the topic and the average going price for them is anywhere from 9,5-13k mark up prices (yahoo autos, cars.com, autotrader.com).
Kelly blue book, edmunds both quote me in the $10,735 ; $9,298 [respectively] ballpark.
My choice is very barely affected by the trim (base,enthusiast,track,etc) but mostly by cosmetics (how upkept is the interior? how is the paint/dings?) and obviously whether known issues were fixed.
If i were to walk in to a dealership and lowball them with 9k would i have a chance? Is it a little too low to start? id be willing to go up to the 10k mark (even 11 if the car deserves it - a year up or top trim or really good condition, etc).
Should i negotiate from 9k up in 100 increments? 200s? should i negotiate Sale price or TT out the door? (taxes%26amp;tags)
There are known issues with the car {feathering, window motor breaking, rattling, transmission failure) - when such things are fixed, they are documented right? Where could i check if the dealer is honest about these issues having been fixed? should there be a document with all the fixes? (i dont know if the maintenance/oil change booklet would include these)
Can i use the fact that its a sportscar/stick shift (im in new york)/tough gas times to be driving a car that uses premium only - as leverage? Would that be rude (or implied that the invoice/kbb value reflects this)?
Please give as much advice as possibleHow low to offer on a used 350z?
I dont know how many Datsun/ Nissan products you have bought in the past, but as an owner of many Skylines and Nissans over the years i can tell you they are great cars....
As for the kelly blue book it really does not mean a lot- its what dealers quote from when they are taking your car as a trade in and that is about it.... I mean no disrespect to car dealers when i say that either, but personally it is my beleif that vehicles are sold for what the market will bear and what the market beleives the vehicle to be worth....
All Nissan products are fantastic but you also must realise that you are buying a sports car that is second hand and so therefore there may be things you will need to repair or replace due to age or regular wear and tear.
I am not sure how well you would go at negotiating with a dealer- generally dealers will negotiate but they also need to make a living.... If you dont like a dealers price then i suggest you look at an auto auction or a private sale.... But if you came to buy a car from me and started quoting the blue book and complaining about gas prices id probably suggest you head to your local BMW dealership, where you can argue blue book and gas prices with people who would see merit in these arguements.....
Basically a 350z is a nice car and if you want one pay what you think its worth, but dealer or private, nobody really has a reason to take a low ball offer from you when it is a desireable vehicle. Good luck finding what you want man.How low to offer on a used 350z?
Comapring dealerships and private sales, is ridiculous. They're two completely different markets. Different conditions, etc. Apples and oranges.
And as a private seller, no, i don't "expect to lose at least 1k" from my prices.The fact that you think I should, is just insulting.
If my car is worth $11k to me, it's worth $11k. Take your "haggling" elsewhere.How low to offer on a used 350z?
"Can i use the fact that its a sportscar/stick shift (im in new york)/tough gas times to be driving a car that uses premium only - as leverage?"
That's absurd. You know it's a sports car.
If you wanted a fuel efficient car, go buy one. Seriously. If you showed up to buy a car from me, and then complained that it wasn't as fuel efficient as you wanted and you wanted a discount for it, I'd tell you to get the F--- off my property. You knew what you were looking at, when you saw the ad.
That's like going to buy a boat, then complaining that it doesn't fly, and wanting a discount.
"Would that be rude (or implied that the invoice/kbb value reflects this)?"
Unless someone from KBB is with you, and appraising the car, their book has absolutely NOTHING to do with the value of the car.
Ultimately, you can offer whatever you want. And the seller can say no. And ask you to leave. Which is what I do, everytime someone lowballs me.
Think about it this way. Let's say you have a $11,000 car you're trying to sell. Would you want someone to come in, and immediately disrespect you and your business, by offering 20% less than the price tag?
Hell no.
Edit: I AM A DEALERSHIP, idiot.
And no, it's not stupid that they mark the cars up. They cover tax and title, warranties, pre-sale inspection, etc. None of which you can get from a private seller. Of course we're going to mark up our prices. We offer more benefits.
Its nearly impossible to advise you because I don't know anything about the real value of the cars you are looking at. And KBB %26amp; Edmund's are not very accurate at all.
And "low balling" as in offering thousands below their asking price often just makes you look like a game-playing whack job who they wont want to waste time on.
Check the Black Book values, condition is paramount, and then ad a reasonable profit. And that's the price you should target paying.
Whats a reasonable profit ? On a $9000-13,000 car, I cant imagine any dealer selling it to you for less than $1500-2000 profit.
Again, I cant stress how important condition is to a cars value.
A clean car can easily be worth thousands more than an average car and maybe even double what a rough one would be worth.
Warranties, if any, at a dealer are not FREE, they are added to the price of the car. (And 50-50 warranties are effectively worthless)
There is no ballpark figure that most dealers will come down. And, I wouldn't be so quick to assume that every private party is willing to come down $1000. Some might, but they might not too.
a $1000 discount from a dealer or even more MIGHT be possible depending on how "jacked up" their prices are to start with.
Some places, like Carmax, do not negotiate. Its take it or leave it.
I did some research on the topic and the average going price for them is anywhere from 9,5-13k mark up prices (yahoo autos, cars.com, autotrader.com).
Kelly blue book, edmunds both quote me in the $10,735 ; $9,298 [respectively] ballpark.
My choice is very barely affected by the trim (base,enthusiast,track,etc) but mostly by cosmetics (how upkept is the interior? how is the paint/dings?) and obviously whether known issues were fixed.
If i were to walk in to a dealership and lowball them with 9k would i have a chance? Is it a little too low to start? id be willing to go up to the 10k mark (even 11 if the car deserves it - a year up or top trim or really good condition, etc).
Should i negotiate from 9k up in 100 increments? 200s? should i negotiate Sale price or TT out the door? (taxes%26amp;tags)
There are known issues with the car {feathering, window motor breaking, rattling, transmission failure) - when such things are fixed, they are documented right? Where could i check if the dealer is honest about these issues having been fixed? should there be a document with all the fixes? (i dont know if the maintenance/oil change booklet would include these)
Can i use the fact that its a sportscar/stick shift (im in new york)/tough gas times to be driving a car that uses premium only - as leverage? Would that be rude (or implied that the invoice/kbb value reflects this)?
Please give as much advice as possibleHow low to offer on a used 350z?
I dont know how many Datsun/ Nissan products you have bought in the past, but as an owner of many Skylines and Nissans over the years i can tell you they are great cars....
As for the kelly blue book it really does not mean a lot- its what dealers quote from when they are taking your car as a trade in and that is about it.... I mean no disrespect to car dealers when i say that either, but personally it is my beleif that vehicles are sold for what the market will bear and what the market beleives the vehicle to be worth....
All Nissan products are fantastic but you also must realise that you are buying a sports car that is second hand and so therefore there may be things you will need to repair or replace due to age or regular wear and tear.
I am not sure how well you would go at negotiating with a dealer- generally dealers will negotiate but they also need to make a living.... If you dont like a dealers price then i suggest you look at an auto auction or a private sale.... But if you came to buy a car from me and started quoting the blue book and complaining about gas prices id probably suggest you head to your local BMW dealership, where you can argue blue book and gas prices with people who would see merit in these arguements.....
Basically a 350z is a nice car and if you want one pay what you think its worth, but dealer or private, nobody really has a reason to take a low ball offer from you when it is a desireable vehicle. Good luck finding what you want man.How low to offer on a used 350z?
Comapring dealerships and private sales, is ridiculous. They're two completely different markets. Different conditions, etc. Apples and oranges.
And as a private seller, no, i don't "expect to lose at least 1k" from my prices.The fact that you think I should, is just insulting.
If my car is worth $11k to me, it's worth $11k. Take your "haggling" elsewhere.How low to offer on a used 350z?
"Can i use the fact that its a sportscar/stick shift (im in new york)/tough gas times to be driving a car that uses premium only - as leverage?"
That's absurd. You know it's a sports car.
If you wanted a fuel efficient car, go buy one. Seriously. If you showed up to buy a car from me, and then complained that it wasn't as fuel efficient as you wanted and you wanted a discount for it, I'd tell you to get the F--- off my property. You knew what you were looking at, when you saw the ad.
That's like going to buy a boat, then complaining that it doesn't fly, and wanting a discount.
"Would that be rude (or implied that the invoice/kbb value reflects this)?"
Unless someone from KBB is with you, and appraising the car, their book has absolutely NOTHING to do with the value of the car.
Ultimately, you can offer whatever you want. And the seller can say no. And ask you to leave. Which is what I do, everytime someone lowballs me.
Think about it this way. Let's say you have a $11,000 car you're trying to sell. Would you want someone to come in, and immediately disrespect you and your business, by offering 20% less than the price tag?
Hell no.
Edit: I AM A DEALERSHIP, idiot.
And no, it's not stupid that they mark the cars up. They cover tax and title, warranties, pre-sale inspection, etc. None of which you can get from a private seller. Of course we're going to mark up our prices. We offer more benefits.
Its nearly impossible to advise you because I don't know anything about the real value of the cars you are looking at. And KBB %26amp; Edmund's are not very accurate at all.
And "low balling" as in offering thousands below their asking price often just makes you look like a game-playing whack job who they wont want to waste time on.
Check the Black Book values, condition is paramount, and then ad a reasonable profit. And that's the price you should target paying.
Whats a reasonable profit ? On a $9000-13,000 car, I cant imagine any dealer selling it to you for less than $1500-2000 profit.
Again, I cant stress how important condition is to a cars value.
A clean car can easily be worth thousands more than an average car and maybe even double what a rough one would be worth.
Warranties, if any, at a dealer are not FREE, they are added to the price of the car. (And 50-50 warranties are effectively worthless)
There is no ballpark figure that most dealers will come down. And, I wouldn't be so quick to assume that every private party is willing to come down $1000. Some might, but they might not too.
a $1000 discount from a dealer or even more MIGHT be possible depending on how "jacked up" their prices are to start with.
Some places, like Carmax, do not negotiate. Its take it or leave it.
Where to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
It is listed at a dealership for $28,988. On KBB trade in value is $22,650 for excellent, $21,550 for good and $19,600 for fair.
On the carfax report it said this vehicle was a lease and the dealership bought it from an auction.
So how low should I start my negotiating? Also I do plan on getting fincancing through the dealership, so does that give me more negotiating room? Since the dealership will make some $$ on me financing through them, should I make a lower offer?
I have never bought a used car before, only new cars. Any input would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks in advanceWhere to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
I would offer 20,000 out-the-door, that includes tax, title and licensing. You need to figure out what you are willing to walk out paying for this vehicle, depending on how much you like it compared to others around the same price. So, if you want this vehicle and you are willing to pay 24,000 out-the-door then that shall be your Maximum amount, and you will not buy it for a penny more. With the max in mind, walk in and offer 21,000 OTD, they will say they can't do it, then ask for a business card, write your number phone number down on it and tell them that when they want to make a deal, have them call you.
They will call you back and try to make another offer for you to buy it, which will probley be somewhere around 26.5k to 27k +tax title and license. Deny their offer, and remind them when they want to deal, call you and don't waist your time with crappy deals. Continue until you get want you want for it.
You have a lot of leverage over them, especially due to the economy, gas prices, and your going for a vehicle that they have a hard time selling.
Never settle for less, meaning, don't let them talk you into something else, and always be prepared to not get the vehicle. Keep the mentality that there are alot of Tahoe's out there, so finding one will not be a problem.
Always start low, you can always come up in price.
Hope that helps!
Look around at other dealerships through autotrader.com and compare to other used vehicles if the vehicle has been on the market for a while see if they will take take 25,000 walk out which is including ttl. If not ask them what they can do for you.Where to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
When I bought my truck, I went to my Credit Union/Bank first. I got pre-approved and got a check. And so then I went to the dealership and talked the guy down a couple of grand, because I had the cash/check in hand.
AC/DC - MoneyTalks
make a low offer you can always come up but never down id start at 19600 and go from there but never take there word for the condition take to your mechanic and see what he saysWhere to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
2007 Tahoe's are going for $23000 to $24000 at the auction right now. You will not pay trade in value for it you may pay private party value for the Tahoe. Most good dealers mark the car up at most $4000. Get your own financing that way the dealer does not have to worry about any financing fees if they have to try and get you approved. If I knew the miles and options I could be more accurate but you should be able to do $27000 out the door. Tell them you are going to your bank and ask for there best price so you can arrange your own financing.
I would go no higher than $25k. Also you need to look at NADA that is what most dealers use. If you tell them the KBB price they'll laugh you out of the showroom.
On the carfax report it said this vehicle was a lease and the dealership bought it from an auction.
So how low should I start my negotiating? Also I do plan on getting fincancing through the dealership, so does that give me more negotiating room? Since the dealership will make some $$ on me financing through them, should I make a lower offer?
I have never bought a used car before, only new cars. Any input would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks in advanceWhere to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
I would offer 20,000 out-the-door, that includes tax, title and licensing. You need to figure out what you are willing to walk out paying for this vehicle, depending on how much you like it compared to others around the same price. So, if you want this vehicle and you are willing to pay 24,000 out-the-door then that shall be your Maximum amount, and you will not buy it for a penny more. With the max in mind, walk in and offer 21,000 OTD, they will say they can't do it, then ask for a business card, write your number phone number down on it and tell them that when they want to make a deal, have them call you.
They will call you back and try to make another offer for you to buy it, which will probley be somewhere around 26.5k to 27k +tax title and license. Deny their offer, and remind them when they want to deal, call you and don't waist your time with crappy deals. Continue until you get want you want for it.
You have a lot of leverage over them, especially due to the economy, gas prices, and your going for a vehicle that they have a hard time selling.
Never settle for less, meaning, don't let them talk you into something else, and always be prepared to not get the vehicle. Keep the mentality that there are alot of Tahoe's out there, so finding one will not be a problem.
Always start low, you can always come up in price.
Hope that helps!
Look around at other dealerships through autotrader.com and compare to other used vehicles if the vehicle has been on the market for a while see if they will take take 25,000 walk out which is including ttl. If not ask them what they can do for you.Where to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
When I bought my truck, I went to my Credit Union/Bank first. I got pre-approved and got a check. And so then I went to the dealership and talked the guy down a couple of grand, because I had the cash/check in hand.
AC/DC - MoneyTalks
make a low offer you can always come up but never down id start at 19600 and go from there but never take there word for the condition take to your mechanic and see what he saysWhere to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
2007 Tahoe's are going for $23000 to $24000 at the auction right now. You will not pay trade in value for it you may pay private party value for the Tahoe. Most good dealers mark the car up at most $4000. Get your own financing that way the dealer does not have to worry about any financing fees if they have to try and get you approved. If I knew the miles and options I could be more accurate but you should be able to do $27000 out the door. Tell them you are going to your bank and ask for there best price so you can arrange your own financing.
I would go no higher than $25k. Also you need to look at NADA that is what most dealers use. If you tell them the KBB price they'll laugh you out of the showroom.
How much will I get if my car is totaled?
I know this has been asked a lot on here, I've read the answers. My question, though, is which method do they use? Some say KBB value, other say it's based on the average of the value for similar vehicles for sale in your area. My car is a 2006 Kia Optima, in great condition (well, it was) with only 55,000 miles. The only other 06 Kia Optima for sale within 25 miles of my location is at the same dealership I got mine. It has the same features and 98,000+ miles on it and the asking price is $12,000. So which one can I bank on? KBB value is only $3-5000.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
I've never seen an insurance company use KBB. Most of them use NADA (which is based on the retail price in your area), which will probably be a little less than KBB, because most people overestimate the condition of their vehicle when they are looking at KBB. 55k is a little high for mileage on a 2006, just so you know. Also, Kias drop in value pretty quickly.
The $3-5000 range is where you will be, assuming there is not a lot of pre-existing damage.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
KBB considers your ZIP Code in calculations. Car Dealers jack their prices to wheel %26amp; deal as much $$$ as possible. The Insurance Companies mostly Low-Ball as much as they can. I would expect $3000 unless you can convince them to honor your car's condition, then possibly $4000.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
Almost all insurance companies use KBB value. I would expect to get the $3000-$5000 for the car. Sorry.
I've never seen an insurance company use KBB. Most of them use NADA (which is based on the retail price in your area), which will probably be a little less than KBB, because most people overestimate the condition of their vehicle when they are looking at KBB. 55k is a little high for mileage on a 2006, just so you know. Also, Kias drop in value pretty quickly.
The $3-5000 range is where you will be, assuming there is not a lot of pre-existing damage.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
KBB considers your ZIP Code in calculations. Car Dealers jack their prices to wheel %26amp; deal as much $$$ as possible. The Insurance Companies mostly Low-Ball as much as they can. I would expect $3000 unless you can convince them to honor your car's condition, then possibly $4000.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
Almost all insurance companies use KBB value. I would expect to get the $3000-$5000 for the car. Sorry.
For those of you who are good at buying cars?
The dealership is trying to sell a 2000 Cadillac Catera for $6000. It is an automatic transmission of course, has 102,000 miles and is in good condition for a used car I guess...Here is the description:
PEARL WHITE WITH TAN LEATHER. ALL POWER INCLUDING WINDOWS,LOCKS, MIRRORS AND SEATS. MOONROOF,CASSETTE/ CD PLAYER. 3.0 LITRE V-6 WITH 102,000 HIGHWAY MILES.
I'm not sure where this price stands on its actual value, but that is why I'm asking for help. I want to know how much I should offer for this vehicle because I know dealerships ask for higher prices. Please, if you were buying this car, WHAT WOULD YOU OFFER. What is a REASONABLE price to offer for this car? I know about KBB and all that, so I don't want to be told "look it up" or something. I just want other opinions on how you others out there would go about calculating and then planning on making a deal. If you can help me out with this car, I would really appreciate it--Thanks!For those of you who are good at buying cars?
Well, I buy cars all the time. I use Kbb all the time. I don't know why you would have such an aversion to it.
I would NEVER spend $6,000 on a car with over 100,000 miles on it. NEVER.
I have no problems buying a car with over 100,000--but the max I would pay is $600.00. That is just me. I figure the world is full of used cars, if I don't get one, I will get another.
Now how you work the car dealership....you are going to have to go to KBB and get an idea of how much they have into this car. Shoot them a fair price above what they have in it (maybe $250.00) .Of course they are going to say no. So leave them your name and number in case they want to reconsider. Then walk out the door.For those of you who are good at buying cars?
You don't want to hear about the KBB so I'll go on, it appears this is about the price you would expect to pay for a same year Honda Passport or it's brother the Isuzu Rodeo. You can compare these to the Cadillac. I think it is a decent price, providing the vehicle is in good to excellent condition. If it looks good and drives good, then it sounds like a deal.mini countryman
PEARL WHITE WITH TAN LEATHER. ALL POWER INCLUDING WINDOWS,LOCKS, MIRRORS AND SEATS. MOONROOF,CASSETTE/ CD PLAYER. 3.0 LITRE V-6 WITH 102,000 HIGHWAY MILES.
I'm not sure where this price stands on its actual value, but that is why I'm asking for help. I want to know how much I should offer for this vehicle because I know dealerships ask for higher prices. Please, if you were buying this car, WHAT WOULD YOU OFFER. What is a REASONABLE price to offer for this car? I know about KBB and all that, so I don't want to be told "look it up" or something. I just want other opinions on how you others out there would go about calculating and then planning on making a deal. If you can help me out with this car, I would really appreciate it--Thanks!For those of you who are good at buying cars?
Well, I buy cars all the time. I use Kbb all the time. I don't know why you would have such an aversion to it.
I would NEVER spend $6,000 on a car with over 100,000 miles on it. NEVER.
I have no problems buying a car with over 100,000--but the max I would pay is $600.00. That is just me. I figure the world is full of used cars, if I don't get one, I will get another.
Now how you work the car dealership....you are going to have to go to KBB and get an idea of how much they have into this car. Shoot them a fair price above what they have in it (maybe $250.00) .Of course they are going to say no. So leave them your name and number in case they want to reconsider. Then walk out the door.For those of you who are good at buying cars?
You don't want to hear about the KBB so I'll go on, it appears this is about the price you would expect to pay for a same year Honda Passport or it's brother the Isuzu Rodeo. You can compare these to the Cadillac. I think it is a decent price, providing the vehicle is in good to excellent condition. If it looks good and drives good, then it sounds like a deal.
Totaled car/insurance question?
i was in an accident last night (not my fault) and my car is totaled. i had a loan out on my car and have $15,000 left owed on it. i looked up the KBB value of my car and its worth $18,000. when the insurance company writes me the check for the $18,000, what do i do? do i need to give $15,000 to the dealership that i bought my car from to pay it off and use the remaining $3,000 to put down on a new car, or is the totaled car written off and i get the whole $18,000 to put towards a new car?
i've never been in this situation before so any help would be greatTotaled car/insurance question?
a) don't assume you wil get $18k, the ins co will make their' own valuation
b) you dont pay the dealership, you pay the lien holder/bank
c) yes, use any balance to get a new loan/car.Totaled car/insurance question?
The insurance company will pay you the actual cash value of your vehicle. It may be $18,000, but will probably be less. If you have a loan on your vehicle, the insurance company pays the loss payee (lender) first. If that pays off your loan, then great. If not, you will either need to use your gap insurance (if you have it) or pay out of your pocket. Any money left after paying the lender is yours to spend.
i've never been in this situation before so any help would be greatTotaled car/insurance question?
a) don't assume you wil get $18k, the ins co will make their' own valuation
b) you dont pay the dealership, you pay the lien holder/bank
c) yes, use any balance to get a new loan/car.Totaled car/insurance question?
The insurance company will pay you the actual cash value of your vehicle. It may be $18,000, but will probably be less. If you have a loan on your vehicle, the insurance company pays the loss payee (lender) first. If that pays off your loan, then great. If not, you will either need to use your gap insurance (if you have it) or pay out of your pocket. Any money left after paying the lender is yours to spend.
1998 (or 97 or 99) acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
So what wld be better? Like the cl is 250 pounds lighter but i cld take some of that out (ie spare tire etc..) and i wld b modding it either one (headers, exhaust, muffler, air intake etc, MABY in a few years a low psi supercharger or twin turbo) also dont you get more hp out of mods with a 3 liter 6 cylender than a 2.2 liter 4 right? Im trying to decide wich one to get, id def get a manual. I just wanna get the one that is faster and better preformance. here are the kbb specs on it so i dont have to list it all
Acura: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/acura/cl/1998/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=6140%26amp;condition=excellent%26amp;mileage=142000
Honda: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/honda/prelude/2001/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=4418
This is just assuming they have the same miles on them. I know about cars but im not a genius so i wanna know wich one is the better car. i like both and i just cant decide and maby someone else knows something better about them that i dont that makes one better than the other?
I also am chooding between these because their both honda (well acura is a brand from honda) so they will be pretty cheap to fix if something breaks.1998 (or 97 or 99) acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
The power is about the same. Overall performance the prelude would be better with more aftermarket support too. Even it has 2.2 it came out of the factory with a higher tune you see that the hp is identical to the 3.0 six. The coupe also has only 2doors giving it a more rigid body for handling. You can get more hp out of a bigger engine but do your research on how many companies actually made aftermarket parts for the 3.0 I bet not as much as the prelude, Integra or Civic.
Acura: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/acura/cl/1998/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=6140%26amp;condition=excellent%26amp;mileage=142000
Honda: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/honda/prelude/2001/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=4418
This is just assuming they have the same miles on them. I know about cars but im not a genius so i wanna know wich one is the better car. i like both and i just cant decide and maby someone else knows something better about them that i dont that makes one better than the other?
I also am chooding between these because their both honda (well acura is a brand from honda) so they will be pretty cheap to fix if something breaks.1998 (or 97 or 99) acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
The power is about the same. Overall performance the prelude would be better with more aftermarket support too. Even it has 2.2 it came out of the factory with a higher tune you see that the hp is identical to the 3.0 six. The coupe also has only 2doors giving it a more rigid body for handling. You can get more hp out of a bigger engine but do your research on how many companies actually made aftermarket parts for the 3.0 I bet not as much as the prelude, Integra or Civic.
1998 acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
So what wld be better? Like the cl is 250 pounds lighter but i cld take some of that out (ie spare tire etc..) and i wld b modding it either one (headers, exhaust, muffler, air intake etc, MABY in a few years a low psi supercharger or twin turbo) also dont you get more hp out of mods with a 3 liter 6 cylender than a 2.2 liter 4 right? Im trying to decide wich one to get, id def get a manual. I just wanna get the one that is faster and better preformance. here are the kbb specs on it so i dont have to list it all
Acura: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/acura/cl/1998/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=6140%26amp;condition=excellent%26amp;mileage=142000
Honda: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/honda/prelude/2001/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=4418
This is just assuming they have the same miles on them. I know about cars but im not a genius so i wanna know wich one is the better car. i like both and i just cant decide and maby someone else knows something better about them that i dont that makes one better than the other?
I also am chooding between these because their both honda (well acura is a brand from honda) so they will be pretty cheap to fix if something breaks.1998 acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
Neither, you are comparing unreliable junque to unreliable junque so flip a coin. They are both going to make you learn where every mechanic in town lives and unless you want to be branded as BORING don't get either since they are both famous for being BORING cars.
Besides, Japanese and Korean quality has been going down hill faster than a rocket powered sled on a greased rail in recent years.
Get American or European for quality and safety, Japanese and Korean cars are pretty crappy for the most part.1998 acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
I love this guy up here talking crap about japanese cars even though Honda, Toyota, and Nissan have some of the longest lasting motors on the market. Sounds to me like you are just biased towards them. I own a 5th Gen Lude with 160k on it. I have never had ANY problems with it.
I wouldn't really consider either a "performance" car, but, while you would in theory get better performance modding a V6, there will be a lot more parts for the Prelude motor, just more popular for the aftermarket.
"id def get a manual"
The 1998 3.0CL was only available as an automatic.
Acura: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/acura/cl/1998/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=6140%26amp;condition=excellent%26amp;mileage=142000
Honda: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/honda/prelude/2001/retail-value/technical-specifications?id=4418
This is just assuming they have the same miles on them. I know about cars but im not a genius so i wanna know wich one is the better car. i like both and i just cant decide and maby someone else knows something better about them that i dont that makes one better than the other?
I also am chooding between these because their both honda (well acura is a brand from honda) so they will be pretty cheap to fix if something breaks.1998 acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
Neither, you are comparing unreliable junque to unreliable junque so flip a coin. They are both going to make you learn where every mechanic in town lives and unless you want to be branded as BORING don't get either since they are both famous for being BORING cars.
Besides, Japanese and Korean quality has been going down hill faster than a rocket powered sled on a greased rail in recent years.
Get American or European for quality and safety, Japanese and Korean cars are pretty crappy for the most part.1998 acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?
I love this guy up here talking crap about japanese cars even though Honda, Toyota, and Nissan have some of the longest lasting motors on the market. Sounds to me like you are just biased towards them. I own a 5th Gen Lude with 160k on it. I have never had ANY problems with it.
Report Abuse
1998 acura cl 3.0 or 2001 honda prelude? Performance wise?I wouldn't really consider either a "performance" car, but, while you would in theory get better performance modding a V6, there will be a lot more parts for the Prelude motor, just more popular for the aftermarket.
"id def get a manual"
The 1998 3.0CL was only available as an automatic.
Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
Hi,
I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra that i bought brand new. The monthly payment is $260 a month with an interest rate I believe at 3.5%. Ideally I would like to lower my monthly payment to $200. I currently have $9400 left on the loan and the car is valued at around $10,000 by KBB.
What I want to know is if I go to a dealer is it possible to get a 2006 or 2007 model of a good used car and eliminate my loan and lower my monthly payments?Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
Hang onto that Sentra. We've got a 2004 Sentra with 100,000 miles on it. It still lacks a year being paid off (because we bought used, as you're thinking about doing) and our payments are $264 per month. We traded a car that was worth slightly less than what was owed, plus the dealership took us to the cleaners on the trade-in allowance they were willing to give. You'd likely face the same situation. KBB is the highest value of most automobile buyer's guides. The others, such as NADA and Edmunds.com's "True Market Value" tend to be lower. Expect your dealership to offer you as little as possible.
You're in a pretty good, fairly new car that should last a long time. If you want to pay it off early, call the finance company and see what you can do about applying an extra amount (say, $20) to the principal balance each month. They might set up a plan for you to do that. If we weren't trying to buy a house right now, we'd probably just pay off the remaining $2,700 or so we owe on our Sentra. All we'd have to do is call the customer service number on our billing statement and work out a payoff amount.
At the very least, do this:
1. Hang onto your Sentra until you've paid it off more. You want to have positive equity built-up in this car, because that's what determines your trade-in value. As it is, you're barely breaking even ($0 equity) based on KBB, and you're probably "upside down" (less than $0 equity...i.e. you owe more than the car is worth) according to other buyer's guides.
2. When you've built up a couple thousand dollars of positive equity (based on NADA and/or other buyers guides like Edmunds TMV), do your research about how much trade allowance would be fair. You want to get your dealer to give you something between the stated trade-in value and the dealer resale value when you go to trade. Bear in mind, however, that the dealer will have to pay off the balance of your loan out of any trade allowance they give you. So if they offer you $8,000 and you owe $6,000 on the car at the time of the trade, you really only get to knock $2,000 off the price of the used car you're trying to buy.
3. Work out your financing ahead of time with your bank. Many banks will offer a fairly competitive car loan at relatively low interest rates (under 6 percent, currently). If you do this ahead of time, you can go into the car dealership and talk CASH PRICE, not monthly payments. This is the number one mistake many car buyers make. We made it when we bought my wife's Sentra.
4. Research the cars you're interested in. Find out the value, again utilizing several buyer's guides to determine a fair price. You're looking at the dealer retail value, but also be aware of the dealer trade-in values for the cars you're looking at, as well. Being that most car buyers are relatively uneducated about this process, you can usually bet the dealer paid less than the dealer trade-in value for the car. Not that they'll ever admit to it, but it's good to remember you might be able to buy the car for less than your buyer's guides' "dealer retail" price recommends.
5. Walk into the dealer with a fair cash price decided. Since you've already worked out the financing with your bank in a low-pressure environment, and you know what your payments will be for several "test" amounts, offer them your lowest price. Cash talks, and you-know-what walks. You'd be surprised at the deals you can get by utilizing this method. The salesman gets a clean commission check with nothing going to the Finance and Insurance guy, and he doesn't even have to do as much "car dealer math" on his favorite tool, the Four-Square Sheet. All the dealer has to worry about is whether they're making a fair profit on the vehicle. No F%26amp;I tricks, no need to distract you with monthly payments or special "paint protection" packages, etc.
I used this method to buy my truck, a 2006 Ford Ranger. I bought it in February 2007, when it had 15,000 miles on the odometer. Being a basic truck, without many options, I found it was valued in the $11,500 to $12,500 range, depending on which source I consulted. The dealer had it listed for $11,999 in a newspaper ad.
I arranged financing with my bank, and then called the dealer (a 40 minute drive from my house, so I figured it was better to call first.) They still had the truck, and if I was offering cash, they were willing to come off the price $1,000 immediately. I got the price down another $250 or so and then offered up my trade, a totaled 1994 Nissan pickup that still ran and drove just fine, for an extra $850 or so. It turned out they acquired this truck from a previous owner who traded it in on a brand new Ford Mustang, and I suspect had paid much less than the suggested NADA trade-in value in the process. That's why they were willing to sell it to me so far below the NADA and Edmunds TMV "dealer retail" value.
I came out of it with a very small truck payment, and a great deal overall. We will employ the same strategy when my wife's car needs replacement in a couple years.Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
keep the car you have because you don,t know what your getting on the car market. if you want to lower your payments then get a loan against your car.Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
You won't find the kind of deal you're looking for from a dealer. Look at the dealer trade-in value of your car on KBB. I think you'll find it to be considerably less than you owe on your loan. You'd be better off trying to sell the car yourself, then go shopping for a lower priced vehicle.
ADDED: When you sell the car, you'll use the cash from the sale to pay off your loan and obtain a release of lien from the bank. You'll then give the clear title to the buyer. Any cash you have left over after that is your's to spend on a new car, or whatever else you want to do with it.
I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra that i bought brand new. The monthly payment is $260 a month with an interest rate I believe at 3.5%. Ideally I would like to lower my monthly payment to $200. I currently have $9400 left on the loan and the car is valued at around $10,000 by KBB.
What I want to know is if I go to a dealer is it possible to get a 2006 or 2007 model of a good used car and eliminate my loan and lower my monthly payments?Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
Hang onto that Sentra. We've got a 2004 Sentra with 100,000 miles on it. It still lacks a year being paid off (because we bought used, as you're thinking about doing) and our payments are $264 per month. We traded a car that was worth slightly less than what was owed, plus the dealership took us to the cleaners on the trade-in allowance they were willing to give. You'd likely face the same situation. KBB is the highest value of most automobile buyer's guides. The others, such as NADA and Edmunds.com's "True Market Value" tend to be lower. Expect your dealership to offer you as little as possible.
You're in a pretty good, fairly new car that should last a long time. If you want to pay it off early, call the finance company and see what you can do about applying an extra amount (say, $20) to the principal balance each month. They might set up a plan for you to do that. If we weren't trying to buy a house right now, we'd probably just pay off the remaining $2,700 or so we owe on our Sentra. All we'd have to do is call the customer service number on our billing statement and work out a payoff amount.
At the very least, do this:
1. Hang onto your Sentra until you've paid it off more. You want to have positive equity built-up in this car, because that's what determines your trade-in value. As it is, you're barely breaking even ($0 equity) based on KBB, and you're probably "upside down" (less than $0 equity...i.e. you owe more than the car is worth) according to other buyer's guides.
2. When you've built up a couple thousand dollars of positive equity (based on NADA and/or other buyers guides like Edmunds TMV), do your research about how much trade allowance would be fair. You want to get your dealer to give you something between the stated trade-in value and the dealer resale value when you go to trade. Bear in mind, however, that the dealer will have to pay off the balance of your loan out of any trade allowance they give you. So if they offer you $8,000 and you owe $6,000 on the car at the time of the trade, you really only get to knock $2,000 off the price of the used car you're trying to buy.
3. Work out your financing ahead of time with your bank. Many banks will offer a fairly competitive car loan at relatively low interest rates (under 6 percent, currently). If you do this ahead of time, you can go into the car dealership and talk CASH PRICE, not monthly payments. This is the number one mistake many car buyers make. We made it when we bought my wife's Sentra.
4. Research the cars you're interested in. Find out the value, again utilizing several buyer's guides to determine a fair price. You're looking at the dealer retail value, but also be aware of the dealer trade-in values for the cars you're looking at, as well. Being that most car buyers are relatively uneducated about this process, you can usually bet the dealer paid less than the dealer trade-in value for the car. Not that they'll ever admit to it, but it's good to remember you might be able to buy the car for less than your buyer's guides' "dealer retail" price recommends.
5. Walk into the dealer with a fair cash price decided. Since you've already worked out the financing with your bank in a low-pressure environment, and you know what your payments will be for several "test" amounts, offer them your lowest price. Cash talks, and you-know-what walks. You'd be surprised at the deals you can get by utilizing this method. The salesman gets a clean commission check with nothing going to the Finance and Insurance guy, and he doesn't even have to do as much "car dealer math" on his favorite tool, the Four-Square Sheet. All the dealer has to worry about is whether they're making a fair profit on the vehicle. No F%26amp;I tricks, no need to distract you with monthly payments or special "paint protection" packages, etc.
I used this method to buy my truck, a 2006 Ford Ranger. I bought it in February 2007, when it had 15,000 miles on the odometer. Being a basic truck, without many options, I found it was valued in the $11,500 to $12,500 range, depending on which source I consulted. The dealer had it listed for $11,999 in a newspaper ad.
I arranged financing with my bank, and then called the dealer (a 40 minute drive from my house, so I figured it was better to call first.) They still had the truck, and if I was offering cash, they were willing to come off the price $1,000 immediately. I got the price down another $250 or so and then offered up my trade, a totaled 1994 Nissan pickup that still ran and drove just fine, for an extra $850 or so. It turned out they acquired this truck from a previous owner who traded it in on a brand new Ford Mustang, and I suspect had paid much less than the suggested NADA trade-in value in the process. That's why they were willing to sell it to me so far below the NADA and Edmunds TMV "dealer retail" value.
I came out of it with a very small truck payment, and a great deal overall. We will employ the same strategy when my wife's car needs replacement in a couple years.Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
keep the car you have because you don,t know what your getting on the car market. if you want to lower your payments then get a loan against your car.Does It Make Sense To Trade In my Car?
You won't find the kind of deal you're looking for from a dealer. Look at the dealer trade-in value of your car on KBB. I think you'll find it to be considerably less than you owe on your loan. You'd be better off trying to sell the car yourself, then go shopping for a lower priced vehicle.
ADDED: When you sell the car, you'll use the cash from the sale to pay off your loan and obtain a release of lien from the bank. You'll then give the clear title to the buyer. Any cash you have left over after that is your's to spend on a new car, or whatever else you want to do with it.
Why does insurance want to know how much I purchased the car for? How do they use this info?
I just purchased a used car and started to add insurance on it with Wawanesa Insurance. Right off the bat the representative asked me how much did I purchase the car for. I would like to know if they base my premiums based on how much i purchased the car for. Lets say I purchased a car for 10,000. If I told them I purchased the car for 5,000 would the Premiums be less but if i total my car would they only cover $5000 or would they go by KBB, current market value..ect ect ? Are insurance companies required to share this information with anybody?
Thank youWhy does insurance want to know how much I purchased the car for? How do they use this info?
depends on the year of the veh, if the car is old like 1989 or older it will probably need to have a stated amount (cost new), if it has a salvage title they might ask you for the stated amount, of if you want to have a stated amount.....yes they will rate you based on the info you provide so just be honest with themWhy does insurance want to know how much I purchased the car for? How do they use this info?
I've never had an insurance agent ask me that. I'd be careful.mbusa
Thank youWhy does insurance want to know how much I purchased the car for? How do they use this info?
depends on the year of the veh, if the car is old like 1989 or older it will probably need to have a stated amount (cost new), if it has a salvage title they might ask you for the stated amount, of if you want to have a stated amount.....yes they will rate you based on the info you provide so just be honest with themWhy does insurance want to know how much I purchased the car for? How do they use this info?
I've never had an insurance agent ask me that. I'd be careful.
Will trading in my new car worth 21k for another new car get me what my car is worth for the trade in value?
I have a 2009 nissan rogue. Its got 7k miles on it. KBB says trade in value is 21,100. I would like to get something like a RAV4. I owe 17k on the Rogue which is financed through my bank. Does it matter if when I go to buy a RAV4 if I look to buy a new or used one? Will that change the amount the dealer is willing to give me for my Rogue?
ALSO : I clearly dont know much about this...
So.. Say the dealer gives me 21, 100 for my Rogue. I buy a car that is 25k. I would then turn around and pay off my Rogue (17k), put the 4,100 toward my new RAV4 and then finance the rest... Correct? Will I need to put any other money down.
I really wish I liked my Rogue so I didnt have to deal with this... thanks ya'll!Will trading in my new car worth 21k for another new car get me what my car is worth for the trade in value?
First of all even though you car is worth 21k it's unlikely a dealer will offer that as they want to make a profit from you. Most work from the glasses guide (trade value) when valuing your car.
You'd be much better selling it privately and then heading down to the dealer with a 4k deposit to set up a new finance.
Also check with your current finance company there isn't an early settlement fee depending on what you orginally agreed in your current contract.
Laast of all do some research on the new car and have a few test drives so your not spending 20k+ on a car you might not like.
Good luck
ALSO : I clearly dont know much about this...
So.. Say the dealer gives me 21, 100 for my Rogue. I buy a car that is 25k. I would then turn around and pay off my Rogue (17k), put the 4,100 toward my new RAV4 and then finance the rest... Correct? Will I need to put any other money down.
I really wish I liked my Rogue so I didnt have to deal with this... thanks ya'll!Will trading in my new car worth 21k for another new car get me what my car is worth for the trade in value?
First of all even though you car is worth 21k it's unlikely a dealer will offer that as they want to make a profit from you. Most work from the glasses guide (trade value) when valuing your car.
You'd be much better selling it privately and then heading down to the dealer with a 4k deposit to set up a new finance.
Also check with your current finance company there isn't an early settlement fee depending on what you orginally agreed in your current contract.
Laast of all do some research on the new car and have a few test drives so your not spending 20k+ on a car you might not like.
Good luck
Sold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
I was sold a used 2007 Toyota Camry for $18k(KBB Value) with 18K miles and had a 3yr or 36,000 mile warranty. i noticed that the temperature Gauge was not not showing the outside temperature but i was not in a position at the time to get to a shop immediately to check it out and i also figured it would have been covered under the warranty. 7 months and another 5K miles later i finally take it to a Toyota dealership only to find that:
1. The actual unit was missing from the car
2. The engine is leaking oil, Coolant and the Power steering fluid
3. The original Engine had been replaced with an aftermarket engine which voids the warranty!!!
4. We pulled up the VIN# There are signs that the car had been in a front end collision and that the engine indeed need to be replaced(Possibly replaced by former owner.)
I took the car back to the dealership and they put me in a loaner for now, they apparently fixed the car but i decided i wanted out of the Camry. They are letting me out of the car for a comparable one but they are saying the car has depreciated in value and the trade in value is was 12K for the car ( i still have 11,000 that I'm financing). i feel as if I'm losing out on more cash than i should be and now I'm considering asking for my down payment back and going elsewhere . BTW none of this information was not on the car fax report which i know is kind of a useless tool. Is there any reason i should get a lawyer involved in this mess?Sold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
tell the dealership you want 18k in credit or the next call you make will be to the Atty Generals office and the DMV fraud division. you can also call ToyotaSold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
Well, you can either write it off as one of life's less beneficial lessons or you can pursue it legally.
Personally, I would simply talk to a lawyer experienced with such issues just to get an idea of what all of my options are. Obviously, the dealer doesn't have much of a defense in this case.Sold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
By using legal service, I look at it as spending more money than you should. It's terrible that this has happened to you, but cars do depreciate just that fast, and losing out on 6 grand is not unheard of... especially since you've had the car for over half a year and wracked up those miles. Looks to me as if you're just going to have to suck it up and cut your losses. At least they're being nice enough to let you out of the Camry... THAT is something that you should be looking at as a bonus. Even though it feels like you get the short end of the stick and you FEEL like you're getting ripped off, I don't believe you are. You could argue until your blue though... Maybe they'll up you a thousand of two.
1. The actual unit was missing from the car
2. The engine is leaking oil, Coolant and the Power steering fluid
3. The original Engine had been replaced with an aftermarket engine which voids the warranty!!!
4. We pulled up the VIN# There are signs that the car had been in a front end collision and that the engine indeed need to be replaced(Possibly replaced by former owner.)
I took the car back to the dealership and they put me in a loaner for now, they apparently fixed the car but i decided i wanted out of the Camry. They are letting me out of the car for a comparable one but they are saying the car has depreciated in value and the trade in value is was 12K for the car ( i still have 11,000 that I'm financing). i feel as if I'm losing out on more cash than i should be and now I'm considering asking for my down payment back and going elsewhere . BTW none of this information was not on the car fax report which i know is kind of a useless tool. Is there any reason i should get a lawyer involved in this mess?Sold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
tell the dealership you want 18k in credit or the next call you make will be to the Atty Generals office and the DMV fraud division. you can also call ToyotaSold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
Well, you can either write it off as one of life's less beneficial lessons or you can pursue it legally.
Personally, I would simply talk to a lawyer experienced with such issues just to get an idea of what all of my options are. Obviously, the dealer doesn't have much of a defense in this case.Sold a car without full disclosure, Should i talk to a lawyer first?
By using legal service, I look at it as spending more money than you should. It's terrible that this has happened to you, but cars do depreciate just that fast, and losing out on 6 grand is not unheard of... especially since you've had the car for over half a year and wracked up those miles. Looks to me as if you're just going to have to suck it up and cut your losses. At least they're being nice enough to let you out of the Camry... THAT is something that you should be looking at as a bonus. Even though it feels like you get the short end of the stick and you FEEL like you're getting ripped off, I don't believe you are. You could argue until your blue though... Maybe they'll up you a thousand of two.
Discharge of Indebtedness Supporting documents?
Good day, Everyone!
Two days ago, my husband received a CP501 notice from the IRS indicating that hubby has some unpaid taxes due to a discharge of Indebtedness in 2008 that hubby didn't report as a taxable income(because he didn't know that he had to report it plus no form 1099c was forwarded to him from the bank). Now, I research about it and found out that the amout discharged can be claimed by him as an exclusion because we were insolvent then. We tried to fill out form 982, checked Part I 1b and filled the amount on Line 2 and PartII 10a. Now our main concern is, we tried our best to recall the the amount he owned and owed then to determine his insolvency status(thru the insolvency worksheet). But, since we only got the notice now, we are having hard time determining the EXACT figures, we were only able to come up with ESTIMATES of the FMV of the assets he owned and liabilities he owed. We called up IRS and asked about our concern about supporting documentation of the figure we put in the insolvency worksheet and they told us that it has to be the exact amount and the value of assets we owned, like for cars value on kbb maybe used, etc... Now, my hubby is apprehensive and actually wanted to just write a check to the IRS to just get this over with. I am a little hopefull that somehow he could still use the exclusion from gross income in order for it to be treated as a nontaxable income. My only concern is providing the supporting documentation on the amounts we came up with at the insolvency worksheet...
Would it be a good idea to just go for it and just use estimates, or should I just let my husband pay for it?
Any input would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance..Discharge of Indebtedness Supporting documents?
Oh boy, if you waited until you got the CP501 letter, your husband ignored the CP2000. That means the tax bill has already been assessed. Unless and until he files an amended return with the form 982--and the IRS accepts it--he is expected to pay the tax. if he sets up a payment plan, the $105 setup fee is not refundable.
As for form 982, it's not required unless you truly believe he was insolvent. Yes, the figures need to be as accurate as you can make them. The IRS knows after 3 years you will forget a few things.
BTW, you need to include the insolvency worksheet *and* the worksheet for what you wrote down on line 10A. 10A, after all, affects your gain when you shed assets in the future. For example, if you own a home, the part of the house you write down *will* be added back to income when sold even if you otherwise qualify for the sale of home exclusion. You cannot pick and choose which assets you write down. The instructions will say not to send the insolvency worksheet, but the service center will send a letter back asking for it.Discharge of Indebtedness Supporting documents?
Your choices are going back and doing what he should have done of rolling over and writing a check. Your estimate of fair market value may be different from the banks. If he was sent an IRS Form CP-2000 and he doesn't have it, he can request a copy. Find a local tax practitioner and get professional help. As a reasonable shot at the FMV of what sounds like a vehicle, I would say that the current FMV of a similiar model that is three years newer (now) than the one your husband had reasonably reflects the FMV of what he lost. The bank may have used trade in value where you should use private party sale value.
Two days ago, my husband received a CP501 notice from the IRS indicating that hubby has some unpaid taxes due to a discharge of Indebtedness in 2008 that hubby didn't report as a taxable income(because he didn't know that he had to report it plus no form 1099c was forwarded to him from the bank). Now, I research about it and found out that the amout discharged can be claimed by him as an exclusion because we were insolvent then. We tried to fill out form 982, checked Part I 1b and filled the amount on Line 2 and PartII 10a. Now our main concern is, we tried our best to recall the the amount he owned and owed then to determine his insolvency status(thru the insolvency worksheet). But, since we only got the notice now, we are having hard time determining the EXACT figures, we were only able to come up with ESTIMATES of the FMV of the assets he owned and liabilities he owed. We called up IRS and asked about our concern about supporting documentation of the figure we put in the insolvency worksheet and they told us that it has to be the exact amount and the value of assets we owned, like for cars value on kbb maybe used, etc... Now, my hubby is apprehensive and actually wanted to just write a check to the IRS to just get this over with. I am a little hopefull that somehow he could still use the exclusion from gross income in order for it to be treated as a nontaxable income. My only concern is providing the supporting documentation on the amounts we came up with at the insolvency worksheet...
Would it be a good idea to just go for it and just use estimates, or should I just let my husband pay for it?
Any input would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance..Discharge of Indebtedness Supporting documents?
Oh boy, if you waited until you got the CP501 letter, your husband ignored the CP2000. That means the tax bill has already been assessed. Unless and until he files an amended return with the form 982--and the IRS accepts it--he is expected to pay the tax. if he sets up a payment plan, the $105 setup fee is not refundable.
As for form 982, it's not required unless you truly believe he was insolvent. Yes, the figures need to be as accurate as you can make them. The IRS knows after 3 years you will forget a few things.
BTW, you need to include the insolvency worksheet *and* the worksheet for what you wrote down on line 10A. 10A, after all, affects your gain when you shed assets in the future. For example, if you own a home, the part of the house you write down *will* be added back to income when sold even if you otherwise qualify for the sale of home exclusion. You cannot pick and choose which assets you write down. The instructions will say not to send the insolvency worksheet, but the service center will send a letter back asking for it.Discharge of Indebtedness Supporting documents?
Your choices are going back and doing what he should have done of rolling over and writing a check. Your estimate of fair market value may be different from the banks. If he was sent an IRS Form CP-2000 and he doesn't have it, he can request a copy. Find a local tax practitioner and get professional help. As a reasonable shot at the FMV of what sounds like a vehicle, I would say that the current FMV of a similiar model that is three years newer (now) than the one your husband had reasonably reflects the FMV of what he lost. The bank may have used trade in value where you should use private party sale value.
Trade In A Car For Another Car?
I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia. I want to trade it in for a new car, around the same price, maybe cheaper (KBB.com values it at $24,500.) However, I still want a big-ish car. Anything from a crossover and up in size.
What would you guys recommend? (By the way, I prefer a higher-quality used car than a lower-quality new car; In example, I'd rather a used Lexus than a new Kia.)Trade In A Car For Another Car?
Remember that your trade-in is worth the difference between what you owe and what it's worth in trade. Assuming you own it free and clear, that's $24,500. Assuming you still owe $24,500, that's zero.
I personally like used cars that are 1 or 2 years old, still well within manufacturers warranty, so you have no risk of getting stuck with someone else's problem or unexpected repair bills soon after you buy it. $24,500 is probably not quite enough for a big-gish 1 or 2 year old luxury crossover or car (but it would still get you a 3 or 4 year old smallish one, BMW 3 series, Lexus IS, Audi A4, Mercedes C, soemthing like that). Again though, I like the warranty, and those cars are small.
If you want a sedan, maybe something like a 2008 or 2009 Acura TL? A little bigger car than your options in the most upscale brands in that price range, still an upscale brand, still a lot of warranty left, etc.
If you want a "crossover and up", you're trading what you have for something very similar to it, and you always lose money doing that. You have to ask "why". That said, I'd pick a 2010 Mazda CX-9.
Good luck!Trade In A Car For Another Car?
I have an Acura MDX and I like it. I was the same as you, I wanted a nicer 07 than a 2010 Kia. I got mine at Carmax. Their website is really good for finding cars, too.Trade In A Car For Another Car?
Test drive a few models that appeal to you. See what fits and what you like about it and take time to compare a few different models. What is it you like? You know better than anybody can tell you.
How about a used Lexus?
What would you guys recommend? (By the way, I prefer a higher-quality used car than a lower-quality new car; In example, I'd rather a used Lexus than a new Kia.)Trade In A Car For Another Car?
Remember that your trade-in is worth the difference between what you owe and what it's worth in trade. Assuming you own it free and clear, that's $24,500. Assuming you still owe $24,500, that's zero.
I personally like used cars that are 1 or 2 years old, still well within manufacturers warranty, so you have no risk of getting stuck with someone else's problem or unexpected repair bills soon after you buy it. $24,500 is probably not quite enough for a big-gish 1 or 2 year old luxury crossover or car (but it would still get you a 3 or 4 year old smallish one, BMW 3 series, Lexus IS, Audi A4, Mercedes C, soemthing like that). Again though, I like the warranty, and those cars are small.
If you want a sedan, maybe something like a 2008 or 2009 Acura TL? A little bigger car than your options in the most upscale brands in that price range, still an upscale brand, still a lot of warranty left, etc.
If you want a "crossover and up", you're trading what you have for something very similar to it, and you always lose money doing that. You have to ask "why". That said, I'd pick a 2010 Mazda CX-9.
Good luck!Trade In A Car For Another Car?
I have an Acura MDX and I like it. I was the same as you, I wanted a nicer 07 than a 2010 Kia. I got mine at Carmax. Their website is really good for finding cars, too.Trade In A Car For Another Car?
Test drive a few models that appeal to you. See what fits and what you like about it and take time to compare a few different models. What is it you like? You know better than anybody can tell you.
How about a used Lexus?
How can i put it nicely that a seller is asking to much for a car?
I ran a kbb estimate on a car the guy is asking $4,500 private value is $2900-$3300. How can i tell him nicely that he is asking to much, and to reconsider his price? I mean we usually have paid at least 1k less that GOOD condition private party value when we have bought used cars.How can i put it nicely that a seller is asking to much for a car?
You don't.
Did you miss the part where it says that KBB is ONLY a guide, and is not to be used as the sole determining factor in the value of a vehicle?
If he wants to ask $4500, it's his car. He can ask whatever he wants. Nothing in the book says he has to change his price.
I've bought and sold a lot of cars over the last two years as a private seller, probably around 20-25.
If anyone mentions a book value to me, while they're looking at my car, that's the end of the conversation, and I escort them off my property.
You can ask me to reconsider my price. I'll ask you to reconsider whether you want my car, or if you're just wasting my time. Because at the end of the day, the author of the book isn't selling the car. I am. And my price stands.
And yep, I'm hard nosed, like the other guy said.
But I'm trying to sell a car. If you want to sit there and talk about values of things, you can shop elsewhere. I don't have time for bargaining and negotiating. The economy sucks, which means I need more money, not less.
Vipassan sounds pretty hard nosed. In this past year, auto sales have dropped off and people have to adjust their price accordingly. Put it to the seller just as you put it here. If he adjusts the price, that is good for you. If he is like Vipassan and escorts you off the property, you probably did not want to buy from him anyway. There is always another car .How can i put it nicely that a seller is asking to much for a car?
All you can do is make an offer you consider is fair. They can either accept it or decline it. If they decline it, then that is their tight. Go find a different car.
know what you're willing to pay. offer that and not a penny more. It's called dealing. it's not a crime and if someone gets upset, WHO CARES! being too anxious will loose the dealHow can i put it nicely that a seller is asking to much for a car?
I guess you didn't bother to think that THEY are in the recession too?
Honestly, if I'm in hard times, I'm raising my prices on stuff, not lowering it. Because I need to make sure that if I do get talked down, it'll still be at a level that I'm comfortable with.
And if I manage to sell at the higher price, that's a better buffer for me, to keep me out of financial trouble.
Also, what part of that is "overpaying"? $4500 is his price. If he feels it's worth $4500, then it's worth $4500. You can take the fact that you disagree, and shove it up YOUR ***.cb radio
You don't.
Did you miss the part where it says that KBB is ONLY a guide, and is not to be used as the sole determining factor in the value of a vehicle?
If he wants to ask $4500, it's his car. He can ask whatever he wants. Nothing in the book says he has to change his price.
I've bought and sold a lot of cars over the last two years as a private seller, probably around 20-25.
If anyone mentions a book value to me, while they're looking at my car, that's the end of the conversation, and I escort them off my property.
You can ask me to reconsider my price. I'll ask you to reconsider whether you want my car, or if you're just wasting my time. Because at the end of the day, the author of the book isn't selling the car. I am. And my price stands.
And yep, I'm hard nosed, like the other guy said.
But I'm trying to sell a car. If you want to sit there and talk about values of things, you can shop elsewhere. I don't have time for bargaining and negotiating. The economy sucks, which means I need more money, not less.
Vipassan sounds pretty hard nosed. In this past year, auto sales have dropped off and people have to adjust their price accordingly. Put it to the seller just as you put it here. If he adjusts the price, that is good for you. If he is like Vipassan and escorts you off the property, you probably did not want to buy from him anyway. There is always another car .How can i put it nicely that a seller is asking to much for a car?
All you can do is make an offer you consider is fair. They can either accept it or decline it. If they decline it, then that is their tight. Go find a different car.
know what you're willing to pay. offer that and not a penny more. It's called dealing. it's not a crime and if someone gets upset, WHO CARES! being too anxious will loose the dealHow can i put it nicely that a seller is asking to much for a car?
I guess you didn't bother to think that THEY are in the recession too?
Honestly, if I'm in hard times, I'm raising my prices on stuff, not lowering it. Because I need to make sure that if I do get talked down, it'll still be at a level that I'm comfortable with.
And if I manage to sell at the higher price, that's a better buffer for me, to keep me out of financial trouble.
Also, what part of that is "overpaying"? $4500 is his price. If he feels it's worth $4500, then it's worth $4500. You can take the fact that you disagree, and shove it up YOUR ***.
Is it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year ?
Is it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year since for the same rate you can buy a one year younger car next year because of the Kbb valueIs it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year ?
When you are buying used, the timing of your purchase is not going to matter that significantly. The market price for the specific car is not going to drop dramatically enough in a month to justify waiting. There is much more flexibility in haggling the price down than waiting.
If you are concerned about the vehicle's value at resale, you will need to pay attention to when BMW will release the new body style for that model and sell yours before that happens. That seems to be the indicator of their prices depreciating significantly, mostly because the older body style is more obviously dated.Is it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year ?
you should be okay. certain cars' depreciation varies by model year, so it's all going to depend on which model you're buying. considering that BMW's 2010 lineup is virtually the same as their cars from 2009, i'd say you'll be okay. just watch yourself, these cars depreciate in value like crazy(especially the 5-series, 6-series, and 7-series).Is it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year ?
wait till the newer one comes out, than the older one will be cheaper
When you are buying used, the timing of your purchase is not going to matter that significantly. The market price for the specific car is not going to drop dramatically enough in a month to justify waiting. There is much more flexibility in haggling the price down than waiting.
If you are concerned about the vehicle's value at resale, you will need to pay attention to when BMW will release the new body style for that model and sell yours before that happens. That seems to be the indicator of their prices depreciating significantly, mostly because the older body style is more obviously dated.Is it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year ?
you should be okay. certain cars' depreciation varies by model year, so it's all going to depend on which model you're buying. considering that BMW's 2010 lineup is virtually the same as their cars from 2009, i'd say you'll be okay. just watch yourself, these cars depreciate in value like crazy(especially the 5-series, 6-series, and 7-series).Is it good to buy a used BMW at the end of this year ?
wait till the newer one comes out, than the older one will be cheaper
How is my car worth more than I bought it?
I bought a Lexus HS 250 about three months ago. I bought it with 5k miles on it from a dealer using USAA car prices. What I do not understand is I bought the car for 30k and KBB is saying private party for the car is 36k and trade in 34k. Is KBB really that far off, or is their another reason for the crazy values?How is my car worth more than I bought it?
That's pretty spot on. Hybrids, especially Toyota's hybrids, have gone up in values by thousands in the past couple of months. We used to have 14 Priuses, and now we have 2.
I wouldn't be at all surprised if you could sell yours for a profit. I'd definitely look into it.
USAA rocks, by the way.How is my car worth more than I bought it?
what the book price is and what someone actually pays for it are 2 different things.How is my car worth more than I bought it?
KBB is that far off.
That's pretty spot on. Hybrids, especially Toyota's hybrids, have gone up in values by thousands in the past couple of months. We used to have 14 Priuses, and now we have 2.
I wouldn't be at all surprised if you could sell yours for a profit. I'd definitely look into it.
USAA rocks, by the way.How is my car worth more than I bought it?
what the book price is and what someone actually pays for it are 2 different things.How is my car worth more than I bought it?
KBB is that far off.
How much is this car worth according to the bank?
I am looking to get a new car, I need to figure out how much the bank will value the car at. I'm looking at this specific car: http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1271849667.html
Other than KBB is there a site the bank uses to figure it out?How much is this car worth according to the bank?
Some banks use NADA which lists a loan value.
And Black book, in which case that loan value is 90% of clean wholesale.
But, FAR more important than any book is your credit.
Other than KBB is there a site the bank uses to figure it out?How much is this car worth according to the bank?
Some banks use NADA which lists a loan value.
And Black book, in which case that loan value is 90% of clean wholesale.
But, FAR more important than any book is your credit.
Selling a car that's not paid off?
So long story short, I'm getting rid of my current car and wanting to get another, cheaper car.
The thing is, my current car isn't paid off fully.
The dealer trade in value according to KBB would still leave me upside down so I don't want to go that route.
And I doubt someone wants to take over my payments which are a little over $500 a month.
So I'm thinking of selling it private party.
The KBB value of the car being sold would pay off the remaining loan and then a little extra.
For easy math, lets just say I owe $10,000 and I would sell it for $12,000.
Is it possible that a buyer would get a loan on the car, and I could use the $12,000 to pay off my remaining loan and the car is free for the buyer?
Is it complicated going this route, or fairly easy?
Any answers are appreciated.Selling a car that's not paid off?
When you satisfy the loan to your lender the title is free to be signed to the party that has purchased the car from you...any additional funds after satisfying the loan amount would be yours to use toward a different vehicle for you.Selling a car that's not paid off?
it's not that hard of a task,just advertise your car for two thousand down and take over payments....Triple A can do the required paper work
The thing is, my current car isn't paid off fully.
The dealer trade in value according to KBB would still leave me upside down so I don't want to go that route.
And I doubt someone wants to take over my payments which are a little over $500 a month.
So I'm thinking of selling it private party.
The KBB value of the car being sold would pay off the remaining loan and then a little extra.
For easy math, lets just say I owe $10,000 and I would sell it for $12,000.
Is it possible that a buyer would get a loan on the car, and I could use the $12,000 to pay off my remaining loan and the car is free for the buyer?
Is it complicated going this route, or fairly easy?
Any answers are appreciated.Selling a car that's not paid off?
When you satisfy the loan to your lender the title is free to be signed to the party that has purchased the car from you...any additional funds after satisfying the loan amount would be yours to use toward a different vehicle for you.Selling a car that's not paid off?
it's not that hard of a task,just advertise your car for two thousand down and take over payments....Triple A can do the required paper work
My parked car was totalled. How should I handle the insurance company. See below for details.?
The other driver's insurance company refused to fix the car stating that the cost of repairs exceeded the value of the car. They are stating that they will pay the KBB "Private party sale" value of the car. I faxed them a copy of the quote from KBB showing the "Retail value." More likely than not, I will be buying a used car from a used car dealer. What are my options? Any suggestions that you might have will be appreciated. Thanks.My parked car was totalled. How should I handle the insurance company. See below for details.?
Always involve YOUR insurance company in negotiations with the other insurance company. If your company can't/won't help. Get a couple of written assessments from auto price "professionals", such as those who work in auto dealerships. If the assessments are higher, present them to the other insurance company. Be firm but fair
Look through Autotrader and find vehicles like yours. Items used to arrive at vehicle value are: Make, Model, Miles, Condition (pictuers help) and options. Certain vehicles hold a higher values than the "Book" values. Insurance companies use the "N.A.D.A. Book" and/or "Kelly Blue Book" The KBB usually has higher values than NADA. Go and speak to your agent (if you didn't buy the insurance on the internet) and have him/her show you (useing one of the books) how the company arrived at the value quoted.My parked car was totalled. How should I handle the insurance company. See below for details.?
OK, legally, they only have to pay the LESSER of cost to repair, or actual cash value. They won't pay retail value, as retail value takes in dealer profit and advertising.
My suggestion - go to your agent. But you're not going to get more than they are legally responsible for, which is private party sale value (or, what you can buy the same car for, at the LOWEST price, not the highest). They aren't obligated to buy you a car at the INFLATED value you get at a dealer.
Your other option - go to small claims court. But I think you'll lose, sorry.
Your insurance company should deal with the other Insur. Co. assuming your state requires you to be insured. Your initial report should have been to the police with a copy furnished to your ins. co. Your ins. co. deals with the opposing ins. co. to determine fault as well as damages.
The other ins. co. took advantage with lies. Use your insurance -- it's their business, now. Good Luck. Let us hear how it's going,My parked car was totalled. How should I handle the insurance company. See below for details.?
Dont settle for that crap,,, appear in person if you can.. They have to replace what you had. Even if you had an edsel with 40,000 miles on it.. Get an auto trader book, or books and find cars that are close to the one you had. Show them what they are going for because that is sure as hell what you lost!! You didnt lose some KBB book value quote. Tell them to replace what you truly lost. They will not spend more than the car is worth,,, but I would make damn sure they understood that I wasnt a fool and I knew how much the car is REALLY worth. The selling market for your car with similar options and miles will give you a good idea.. Consider and present everything!!! Was your car a non-smoker,, was the interior nice,,, new tires?? New Battery?? Modifications,,, They have to replace what u lost ,,,, Private Party my ***!!! Greytrade in value
Always involve YOUR insurance company in negotiations with the other insurance company. If your company can't/won't help. Get a couple of written assessments from auto price "professionals", such as those who work in auto dealerships. If the assessments are higher, present them to the other insurance company. Be firm but fair
Look through Autotrader and find vehicles like yours. Items used to arrive at vehicle value are: Make, Model, Miles, Condition (pictuers help) and options. Certain vehicles hold a higher values than the "Book" values. Insurance companies use the "N.A.D.A. Book" and/or "Kelly Blue Book" The KBB usually has higher values than NADA. Go and speak to your agent (if you didn't buy the insurance on the internet) and have him/her show you (useing one of the books) how the company arrived at the value quoted.My parked car was totalled. How should I handle the insurance company. See below for details.?
OK, legally, they only have to pay the LESSER of cost to repair, or actual cash value. They won't pay retail value, as retail value takes in dealer profit and advertising.
My suggestion - go to your agent. But you're not going to get more than they are legally responsible for, which is private party sale value (or, what you can buy the same car for, at the LOWEST price, not the highest). They aren't obligated to buy you a car at the INFLATED value you get at a dealer.
Your other option - go to small claims court. But I think you'll lose, sorry.
Your insurance company should deal with the other Insur. Co. assuming your state requires you to be insured. Your initial report should have been to the police with a copy furnished to your ins. co. Your ins. co. deals with the opposing ins. co. to determine fault as well as damages.
The other ins. co. took advantage with lies. Use your insurance -- it's their business, now. Good Luck. Let us hear how it's going,My parked car was totalled. How should I handle the insurance company. See below for details.?
Dont settle for that crap,,, appear in person if you can.. They have to replace what you had. Even if you had an edsel with 40,000 miles on it.. Get an auto trader book, or books and find cars that are close to the one you had. Show them what they are going for because that is sure as hell what you lost!! You didnt lose some KBB book value quote. Tell them to replace what you truly lost. They will not spend more than the car is worth,,, but I would make damn sure they understood that I wasnt a fool and I knew how much the car is REALLY worth. The selling market for your car with similar options and miles will give you a good idea.. Consider and present everything!!! Was your car a non-smoker,, was the interior nice,,, new tires?? New Battery?? Modifications,,, They have to replace what u lost ,,,, Private Party my ***!!! Grey
What's a similar site to KBB?
Do you know any site that is similar to KBB? (Kelley Blue Book is the trusted resource for prices, values and reviews on new cars and used cars. Before buying or selling your next car, visit KBB.com)
Thanks!What's a similar site to KBB?
NADA.com
NADA . COMWhat's a similar site to KBB?
www.edmunds.com
www.nada.com
www.galves.comWhat's a similar site to KBB?
Edmunds.com
They call their prices TMV (true market value)
Thanks!What's a similar site to KBB?
NADA.com
NADA . COMWhat's a similar site to KBB?
www.edmunds.com
www.nada.com
www.galves.comWhat's a similar site to KBB?
Edmunds.com
They call their prices TMV (true market value)
I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
You use the amount on the Form 1099-MISC that you got from the promoter.
If the dealer invoice is $22,649 you're going to have a pretty tough time arguing the $25,000 as unreasonable. If the KBB "Fair Purchase Price" for the exact model and options is significantly less than the amount on the 1099 you may have an argument, but the IRS is going to demand proof of your position before accepting a lesser amount.
If you believe that you can substantiate a lesser amount, prepare a written statement and include copies of your evidence backing your claim, such as dealer ad tear sheets from the local newspaper or copies of the KBB web page. Enclose a copy of the 1099-MISC as well. Needless to say you must file a paper return by mail.
If you simply claim a lesser amount than what is on the 1099-MISC, the IRS will come looking for the extra tax in 9 to 18 months or so. Any evidence proving your position will be even harder to secure then than it is now.I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
You use MSRP. They will send you a 1099 anyway.
You'll use the dealer invoice price. The 1099 will have the value on it. It's unfortunate, because you cannot sell the car for the price at which you are being taxed on, even if you refuse delivery. But think of it as the option to buy a car for very very cheap. Personally, I'd sell it back to the dealer.I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
I would use the actual dealer selling price.
FYI-KBB overvalues so you'd be better off using actual price. And it's verifiable, so you should have no issues.
the price the dealer would charge for you to drive it off the lot(if you were buying it)I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
dealer price is irrelevant - you are going to get a 1099 or something stating the value of that prize (probably manufacturer's list price) and that is what you are going to have to pay income taxes on - state and federal - so I would plan on putting at least $6500-7500 away for taxes (depending on your tax bracket after adding$25,000 to your other income for the year you won the car) from whatever you sell it for - the balance is yours to do whatever you want to do with
If the dealer invoice is $22,649 you're going to have a pretty tough time arguing the $25,000 as unreasonable. If the KBB "Fair Purchase Price" for the exact model and options is significantly less than the amount on the 1099 you may have an argument, but the IRS is going to demand proof of your position before accepting a lesser amount.
If you believe that you can substantiate a lesser amount, prepare a written statement and include copies of your evidence backing your claim, such as dealer ad tear sheets from the local newspaper or copies of the KBB web page. Enclose a copy of the 1099-MISC as well. Needless to say you must file a paper return by mail.
If you simply claim a lesser amount than what is on the 1099-MISC, the IRS will come looking for the extra tax in 9 to 18 months or so. Any evidence proving your position will be even harder to secure then than it is now.I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
You use MSRP. They will send you a 1099 anyway.
You'll use the dealer invoice price. The 1099 will have the value on it. It's unfortunate, because you cannot sell the car for the price at which you are being taxed on, even if you refuse delivery. But think of it as the option to buy a car for very very cheap. Personally, I'd sell it back to the dealer.I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
I would use the actual dealer selling price.
FYI-KBB overvalues so you'd be better off using actual price. And it's verifiable, so you should have no issues.
the price the dealer would charge for you to drive it off the lot(if you were buying it)I won car valued @25000. Actual dealer price 22649. Do i use selling price or FMV from KBB for taxable income?
dealer price is irrelevant - you are going to get a 1099 or something stating the value of that prize (probably manufacturer's list price) and that is what you are going to have to pay income taxes on - state and federal - so I would plan on putting at least $6500-7500 away for taxes (depending on your tax bracket after adding$25,000 to your other income for the year you won the car) from whatever you sell it for - the balance is yours to do whatever you want to do with
Determining what price to pay for a used car?
Can anyone please tell me what to make of these price ranges and how I am supposed to determine what the dealer paid for trade-in and what I should pay for the car?
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
2005 Toyota Corolla CE Sedan 4D with 35,289 miles
- asking price $11,991
KBB.com:
Vehicle Condition:
Retail Excellent: $14,225
Private Party (Fair Good Excellent):
$10,090 $11,080 $11,845
Trade-in (Fair Good Excellent):
$7,820 $8,910 $9,550
Edumunds.com:
2005 Toyota Corolla CE 4dr Sedan (1.8L 4cyl 5M)
Trade-In - Private Party - Dealer Retail
$8,730 - $9,724 - $10,521
Nadaguides.com
Clean Trade-In - Clean Retail Value
$9,700 - $11,650Determining what price to pay for a used car?
1) You will never be able to determine what the dealer paid for the car.
2) It doesn't matter what the dealer paid for the car because his cost doesn't change the price he will ask.
3) The dealer's objective is to allow you to pay the absolute maximum you will pay for the car.
Read item 3 carefully because it is the key to buying the car. The dealer will work you in all possible ways to get you to increase your offer. Starts with a salesman, then a closer, maybe a second closer, and ultimately a deal. Until he is convinced you are ready to walk out the door, he will work you.
Brief explanation of prices and car grading:
1) Each car is evaluated for its quality relative to cars of that same age. The fair, good, excellent refer to this evaluation and determine an approximate value corresponding to the three prices you list. A car rated as "good" that is 10 years old will not have the same apperance or wear as a 2 year old car that is rated as "good." This rating is based on how it fits into the population of all cars that are the same age as the car being evaluated. Only about the top 5% of used cars will grade as excellent. If a dealer has a lot full of cars that he proclaims are graded as excellent, he probably isn't being honest. "Clean" and "good" have basically the same meaning in this context. This is the category for most used cars. A car graded as "fair" has a lot of wear and tear for its age.
2) A private party price is the price you would expect to pay if you bought from an individual rather than a dealer. It is usually about half way between the trade-in price and the dealer retail price. This way, both the buyer and seller win. Selller gets more than trade-in and buyer gets a car below retail.
3) Depending on how good you are at negotiating, you should be able to buy the car at roughly the dealer retail price. He won't sell much below retail because he knows that someone else is willing to pay that price or more. Set a hard price limit for yourself at the "good" dealer retail price. Don't go above that price. Try to get a deal at a few hundred $ less. Walk away if they won't meet your hard price limit, there are other dealers/cars that you can buy at that price. Once you have reached agreement on price, condition the sale on a third party inspection that requires the car grades as "good" or better, and if not, the dealer will do the necessary repairs to bring it to the "good" or better level. The 3rd party inspection will cost you about $100-$150, depending on location, and can be done at the dealers lot.Determining what price to pay for a used car?
With the trade-in, the dealer is paying a customer ALOT less and they will go on to mark a car price up significantly when they try to se it.
With any car sell, talk them down as much as possible!Determining what price to pay for a used car?
I would throw out the KBB value...they are always inflated. The average for the Edmunds and NADA value is around $11000...I would start at $10000 and work your way up slowly. If you can get it for under $11000 you did ok.
i think 10 grand would bea fair pricebased on the numbers you gave
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
2005 Toyota Corolla CE Sedan 4D with 35,289 miles
- asking price $11,991
KBB.com:
Vehicle Condition:
Retail Excellent: $14,225
Private Party (Fair Good Excellent):
$10,090 $11,080 $11,845
Trade-in (Fair Good Excellent):
$7,820 $8,910 $9,550
Edumunds.com:
2005 Toyota Corolla CE 4dr Sedan (1.8L 4cyl 5M)
Trade-In - Private Party - Dealer Retail
$8,730 - $9,724 - $10,521
Nadaguides.com
Clean Trade-In - Clean Retail Value
$9,700 - $11,650Determining what price to pay for a used car?
1) You will never be able to determine what the dealer paid for the car.
2) It doesn't matter what the dealer paid for the car because his cost doesn't change the price he will ask.
3) The dealer's objective is to allow you to pay the absolute maximum you will pay for the car.
Read item 3 carefully because it is the key to buying the car. The dealer will work you in all possible ways to get you to increase your offer. Starts with a salesman, then a closer, maybe a second closer, and ultimately a deal. Until he is convinced you are ready to walk out the door, he will work you.
Brief explanation of prices and car grading:
1) Each car is evaluated for its quality relative to cars of that same age. The fair, good, excellent refer to this evaluation and determine an approximate value corresponding to the three prices you list. A car rated as "good" that is 10 years old will not have the same apperance or wear as a 2 year old car that is rated as "good." This rating is based on how it fits into the population of all cars that are the same age as the car being evaluated. Only about the top 5% of used cars will grade as excellent. If a dealer has a lot full of cars that he proclaims are graded as excellent, he probably isn't being honest. "Clean" and "good" have basically the same meaning in this context. This is the category for most used cars. A car graded as "fair" has a lot of wear and tear for its age.
2) A private party price is the price you would expect to pay if you bought from an individual rather than a dealer. It is usually about half way between the trade-in price and the dealer retail price. This way, both the buyer and seller win. Selller gets more than trade-in and buyer gets a car below retail.
3) Depending on how good you are at negotiating, you should be able to buy the car at roughly the dealer retail price. He won't sell much below retail because he knows that someone else is willing to pay that price or more. Set a hard price limit for yourself at the "good" dealer retail price. Don't go above that price. Try to get a deal at a few hundred $ less. Walk away if they won't meet your hard price limit, there are other dealers/cars that you can buy at that price. Once you have reached agreement on price, condition the sale on a third party inspection that requires the car grades as "good" or better, and if not, the dealer will do the necessary repairs to bring it to the "good" or better level. The 3rd party inspection will cost you about $100-$150, depending on location, and can be done at the dealers lot.Determining what price to pay for a used car?
With the trade-in, the dealer is paying a customer ALOT less and they will go on to mark a car price up significantly when they try to se it.
With any car sell, talk them down as much as possible!Determining what price to pay for a used car?
I would throw out the KBB value...they are always inflated. The average for the Edmunds and NADA value is around $11000...I would start at $10000 and work your way up slowly. If you can get it for under $11000 you did ok.
i think 10 grand would bea fair pricebased on the numbers you gave
Haggling with used car salesmen question?
I am looking to purchase a 04 Dodge Durango from a dealership and was wondering when it comes to haggling what is a good price to start with. The selling price is $15475. I have looked it up on KBB and the suggested retail price is around the asking price and private seller price under 12k and the trade in value was as low as under 8k. I can only assume the dealership got the car as a trade in as it is primarily a new car dealership. Last purchase we paid sticker price and I refuse to do this time around.
Generally on a 15k SUV what would be a good price for me to say I want to pay and then realistically what kind of price should I aim to settle at. Thanks for your answersHaggling with used car salesmen question?
well dealerships are hurting to sell SUVs. tell them the most you will give them is 11k. if they wont give it to you, tell them you will go somewhere else. usually they will make an effort to sell it.
Since you are buying an SUV and its coming to a point where car makers are rethinking even making them you can get them at a huge discount. I would point out the fact that these are gas guzzlers and not likely to sell so you are doing them a favor.
Really though, gas is almost $5/gallon do you really want an SUV right now?Haggling with used car salesmen question?
add $1K to the Kbb value, but truely evaluate the price not as a trade in but private to private.
Look at the milage, condition, and tires.
then decide for yourself.
#1 - too much info
#2 - what is the actual question?
Good Luck...Haggling with used car salesmen question?
I always start out low. At this price I would start at 13,000. Remeber you can always go up, but you will never be able to go back down.
is this durango a limited or slt?
last november my mom traded in her 05 slt durango and she got about $14,000..now i dont know if the one you are looking to buy has dvds and navigation systems and such but i can say that you should not pay the asking price.
tell them you will take it for $12,500
Don't forget that after paying trade in price they have to fix and service car and meet all safety requirments. also salesman commision and dealer overhead s well. 85% of private sale buyers wished they went to dealer first as nowadays people will lie and are so good that you cannot tell any more. that is because the do it so often they believe their own B.S.
First, the dealer will consider whether you have a trade-in vehicle. All used cars on a new dealer's lot are marked up from $1,000 to $1,500 on average to compensate for what the buyer wants or needs for his old car (especially if there is an existing loan balance on the title). If there is no trade in, this additional mark-up amount can easily be negotiated down. Run a Carfax and insist on calling the previous owner. (Many dealers buy at auctions, so the Dodge may not have been a trade-in.) Request all service records. If service records are not available (and do not show up on the Carfax report) do yourself a favor and walk away from the deal. One secret not many people know is that most all dealers have a minimum profit which they must meet to sell a used car - and that profit is usually around $850.00. Some used car managers will agree to actually show a customer the paperwork that indicates what the dealership has invested in the vehicle if the buyer agrees to the minimum profit the dealership requires. (If it was a trade-in, this amount will be listed on the previous 'Buyer's Order' for the other car that was purchased. If the Durango was purchased at auction, this amount will be on the auction receipt.) If you use this negotiation tactic, you must be ready to 'Lock-in' and not budge 10 cents until you see the paperwork. Make it clear, that this is the only way you will buy the Durango. And, don't be afraid to walk away. Just leave your phone number with the salesman. He'll call later with a counter offer. Mark my words.
First, figure out how much you're willing to pay. Personally, I wouldn't pay more than 13.5k - 14k for it. Then offer them the private party value, 12k. They probably wont accept. Now comes the fun part. Haggle with them. Say things like "I really don't even need all the options it has..." If you get them to come down to the price you're willing to pay, don't let them know right away, keep haggling. Worst case scenario, you begrudgingly accept their offer, or if they don't come down enough, be willing to physically get up and walk out. You'd be surprised, I've had salesmen chasing me down in parking lots when I would walk out over as little as 500 dollars.
Generally on a 15k SUV what would be a good price for me to say I want to pay and then realistically what kind of price should I aim to settle at. Thanks for your answersHaggling with used car salesmen question?
well dealerships are hurting to sell SUVs. tell them the most you will give them is 11k. if they wont give it to you, tell them you will go somewhere else. usually they will make an effort to sell it.
Since you are buying an SUV and its coming to a point where car makers are rethinking even making them you can get them at a huge discount. I would point out the fact that these are gas guzzlers and not likely to sell so you are doing them a favor.
Really though, gas is almost $5/gallon do you really want an SUV right now?Haggling with used car salesmen question?
add $1K to the Kbb value, but truely evaluate the price not as a trade in but private to private.
Look at the milage, condition, and tires.
then decide for yourself.
#1 - too much info
#2 - what is the actual question?
Good Luck...Haggling with used car salesmen question?
I always start out low. At this price I would start at 13,000. Remeber you can always go up, but you will never be able to go back down.
is this durango a limited or slt?
last november my mom traded in her 05 slt durango and she got about $14,000..now i dont know if the one you are looking to buy has dvds and navigation systems and such but i can say that you should not pay the asking price.
tell them you will take it for $12,500
Don't forget that after paying trade in price they have to fix and service car and meet all safety requirments. also salesman commision and dealer overhead s well. 85% of private sale buyers wished they went to dealer first as nowadays people will lie and are so good that you cannot tell any more. that is because the do it so often they believe their own B.S.
First, the dealer will consider whether you have a trade-in vehicle. All used cars on a new dealer's lot are marked up from $1,000 to $1,500 on average to compensate for what the buyer wants or needs for his old car (especially if there is an existing loan balance on the title). If there is no trade in, this additional mark-up amount can easily be negotiated down. Run a Carfax and insist on calling the previous owner. (Many dealers buy at auctions, so the Dodge may not have been a trade-in.) Request all service records. If service records are not available (and do not show up on the Carfax report) do yourself a favor and walk away from the deal. One secret not many people know is that most all dealers have a minimum profit which they must meet to sell a used car - and that profit is usually around $850.00. Some used car managers will agree to actually show a customer the paperwork that indicates what the dealership has invested in the vehicle if the buyer agrees to the minimum profit the dealership requires. (If it was a trade-in, this amount will be listed on the previous 'Buyer's Order' for the other car that was purchased. If the Durango was purchased at auction, this amount will be on the auction receipt.) If you use this negotiation tactic, you must be ready to 'Lock-in' and not budge 10 cents until you see the paperwork. Make it clear, that this is the only way you will buy the Durango. And, don't be afraid to walk away. Just leave your phone number with the salesman. He'll call later with a counter offer. Mark my words.
First, figure out how much you're willing to pay. Personally, I wouldn't pay more than 13.5k - 14k for it. Then offer them the private party value, 12k. They probably wont accept. Now comes the fun part. Haggle with them. Say things like "I really don't even need all the options it has..." If you get them to come down to the price you're willing to pay, don't let them know right away, keep haggling. Worst case scenario, you begrudgingly accept their offer, or if they don't come down enough, be willing to physically get up and walk out. You'd be surprised, I've had salesmen chasing me down in parking lots when I would walk out over as little as 500 dollars.
Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
Im thinking about selling my 2006 Nissan Sentra (valued at 11k by KBB) and buying a used 1997 Toyota Camry for $3200. My car has under 19000 miles on it and the Camry has 144k. Would it be better to sell my car, buy the other, and pocket the difference, or keep my current car? The only thing Im worried about is the Camry being in poor condition and needed expensive repairs. The two cars get about the same gas mileage.
What should I do?Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
ok for the record dealers dont give you full blue book price and think about how in the paper it says you can buy a new sentra for under 15 so why would someone pay that for yours when they can buy it cheaper.Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
If the car you have right now is running great and no current problems, I wouldn't sell it. If you really need the cash, they go and downsize. But look for a different car, thats some high miles for a Camry. Just keep looking, some great deals come around all the time.Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
take the camry to a trusted mechanic and have them look it over. if it needs anything major, they should be able to tell you.
yes sell the car and buy a expensive onecatalytic converter
What should I do?Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
ok for the record dealers dont give you full blue book price and think about how in the paper it says you can buy a new sentra for under 15 so why would someone pay that for yours when they can buy it cheaper.Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
If the car you have right now is running great and no current problems, I wouldn't sell it. If you really need the cash, they go and downsize. But look for a different car, thats some high miles for a Camry. Just keep looking, some great deals come around all the time.Should I sell my car and buy a cheaper one?
take the camry to a trusted mechanic and have them look it over. if it needs anything major, they should be able to tell you.
yes sell the car and buy a expensive one
How do get a used car dealer to?
lower the price of a vehicle? (Unfortunately I am in a situation where I must buy from a buy here pay here place, except I am getting a guaranteed credit loan, so instead of paying weekly, I get a loan from another company but they charge higher interest than a regular bank) This is a place that sells millions of dollars in cars each year and they are VERY stingy when it comes to lowering prices. They charge over the KBB and NADA and don't want to bargain. The car I want has been there for about 6 months because it is overpriced. I am looking for tips on bargaining with people who are stingy. I also have a trade for them, which the book says trade value is $2400, but knowing him he will only give me like 1000 if I am lucky. I want to get $2000. Wish I could go somewhere else, but I live in a rural area and don't have much choice. I can't get a reg loan because I have a mortgage and my dti ratio would be too high.Thanks for any tips!!How do get a used car dealer to?
These people have zero incentive to bargainwith you. They know you ahve no alternatives. They know they are the only game in town. They don't need to lower the price and they simply won't.
Buy the car for the price they have or go somewhere else is there attitude. You need them more than they need you so don't expect to get a "deal" from a car dealer like this. It's not going to happen.
The charge over KBB because they can. And they probably sell plenty of cars using this method. They may not say it but their attitude is pay the price or walk, we don't care.
U can see video guide: How to buy used car
http://howtosellused.com/how-to-buy-used鈥?/a>
more: http://howtosellused.com/how-to-buy-used鈥?/a>How do get a used car dealer to?
offer what you want and if they decline...walk away
or you can keep your current car and wait til you have enough money and or credit so you dont have to be taken advantage of
Lay the law down. Be like I want this price lower or I will go to the dealer right across the street.How do get a used car dealer to?
Do the Low down on him the price will be lowered
You have no leverage whatsoever. You can negotiate on price or terms, not both.
A bhph dealer has already negotiated on terms by allowing you to buy without good credit.
Do yourself a favor. AVOID them. Keep your car or sell it on your own and buy something for cash.
I used to know guys who ran one. They would sell $350 cars for $500 down and then "flip a coin" to determine if the cars price was $3999 or $4999.
It didnt matter. They knew they would never collect it all anyway. The car wouldnt last that long.
On nicer stuff, say $1500 down, you might get a $2500 wholesale unit Yet owe $5900-6900 more plus interest. And at 21-29% that interest can REALLY add up.
Buying from a BHPH dealer is crazy. Trading your current car and buying from a BHPH dealer is EXTRA crazy.
You said it yourself, he usually tells people "fine go elsewhere" so barganing isn't his thing... and he knows he doesn't have to.
I would suggest you look at car dealership prices on the internet for whichever towns are nearest your location. If you find a good price, talk to the person on the phone, say your interested.. find a few dealers in the area and make a day of it. go check out a few and be ready to buy. yea it might be out of your way, but you might get a much better car for the money and that, is worth the extra time and effort. The worst thing that will happen is that when you do your research you will find out that this local guy's deal isn't as bad as you thought and then you wont feel like your being taken advantage of.
These people have zero incentive to bargainwith you. They know you ahve no alternatives. They know they are the only game in town. They don't need to lower the price and they simply won't.
Buy the car for the price they have or go somewhere else is there attitude. You need them more than they need you so don't expect to get a "deal" from a car dealer like this. It's not going to happen.
The charge over KBB because they can. And they probably sell plenty of cars using this method. They may not say it but their attitude is pay the price or walk, we don't care.
U can see video guide: How to buy used car
http://howtosellused.com/how-to-buy-used鈥?/a>
more: http://howtosellused.com/how-to-buy-used鈥?/a>How do get a used car dealer to?
offer what you want and if they decline...walk away
or you can keep your current car and wait til you have enough money and or credit so you dont have to be taken advantage of
Lay the law down. Be like I want this price lower or I will go to the dealer right across the street.How do get a used car dealer to?
Do the Low down on him the price will be lowered
You have no leverage whatsoever. You can negotiate on price or terms, not both.
A bhph dealer has already negotiated on terms by allowing you to buy without good credit.
Do yourself a favor. AVOID them. Keep your car or sell it on your own and buy something for cash.
I used to know guys who ran one. They would sell $350 cars for $500 down and then "flip a coin" to determine if the cars price was $3999 or $4999.
It didnt matter. They knew they would never collect it all anyway. The car wouldnt last that long.
On nicer stuff, say $1500 down, you might get a $2500 wholesale unit Yet owe $5900-6900 more plus interest. And at 21-29% that interest can REALLY add up.
Buying from a BHPH dealer is crazy. Trading your current car and buying from a BHPH dealer is EXTRA crazy.
You said it yourself, he usually tells people "fine go elsewhere" so barganing isn't his thing... and he knows he doesn't have to.
I would suggest you look at car dealership prices on the internet for whichever towns are nearest your location. If you find a good price, talk to the person on the phone, say your interested.. find a few dealers in the area and make a day of it. go check out a few and be ready to buy. yea it might be out of your way, but you might get a much better car for the money and that, is worth the extra time and effort. The worst thing that will happen is that when you do your research you will find out that this local guy's deal isn't as bad as you thought and then you wont feel like your being taken advantage of.
Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
Make: Audi
Model: TT 225 Quattro (AWD)
Style: Convertible
MIles: 60,500
Color: Red
Condition: Clean
Right now I am considering bying this vehicle. They are asking (dealership) $17,495. However, according to everyone I have asked, it is due for a routine 60k service. It will need upwards of $2,000 of work done to it to assure it is in proper working order.
Now, the asking price is $17,495. I have seen online estimators as low as a tad over $16,000 on KBB. With the repairs in mind, and estimations on "value", would it be outlandish to offer like $13,500 - $14,000 for this car? What would you suggest?Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
KBB is ususally a little high in their values. You should assume, however, that the car has had all necessary services, and if it hasn't, make an offer including the 60k service in the sale price of the car. Make them include promise of the service in writing.
I would offer $15,500 INCLUDING the 60k service, as the dealer can service the car cheaper than you can and you will also not have to pay for it out of pocket.
You can offer whatever you feel is fair. I would probably offer $11000 and see what they say. Check around and see what similar cars are going for to get a true sense of a fair price..Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
find a 350z and get a service concract that covers everything....you will save money that way. 350z are way better.. pull up trade value and start there with your price...
Audi TT's are having water pump , timing belt and thermostat problems. Just to replace the water pump is $2,000.00. Buy a 350 z, much better car.Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
I have a friend that had a TT and a 350Z and he said he much prefers the way the 350Z drives over the TT which kind of suprised me. Also when I looked at buying a used Audi A4 last year there was way too many people having engine problems because they did not replace the timing belt when specified and I hear of many of them had engine problems w/ like 70-90k miles so plan on changing out the timing belt real soon if you go the TT route.
Model: TT 225 Quattro (AWD)
Style: Convertible
MIles: 60,500
Color: Red
Condition: Clean
Right now I am considering bying this vehicle. They are asking (dealership) $17,495. However, according to everyone I have asked, it is due for a routine 60k service. It will need upwards of $2,000 of work done to it to assure it is in proper working order.
Now, the asking price is $17,495. I have seen online estimators as low as a tad over $16,000 on KBB. With the repairs in mind, and estimations on "value", would it be outlandish to offer like $13,500 - $14,000 for this car? What would you suggest?Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
KBB is ususally a little high in their values. You should assume, however, that the car has had all necessary services, and if it hasn't, make an offer including the 60k service in the sale price of the car. Make them include promise of the service in writing.
I would offer $15,500 INCLUDING the 60k service, as the dealer can service the car cheaper than you can and you will also not have to pay for it out of pocket.
You can offer whatever you feel is fair. I would probably offer $11000 and see what they say. Check around and see what similar cars are going for to get a true sense of a fair price..Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
find a 350z and get a service concract that covers everything....you will save money that way. 350z are way better.. pull up trade value and start there with your price...
Audi TT's are having water pump , timing belt and thermostat problems. Just to replace the water pump is $2,000.00. Buy a 350 z, much better car.Used Car Purchase Price Inquiry - Opinions Appreciated?
I have a friend that had a TT and a 350Z and he said he much prefers the way the 350Z drives over the TT which kind of suprised me. Also when I looked at buying a used Audi A4 last year there was way too many people having engine problems because they did not replace the timing belt when specified and I hear of many of them had engine problems w/ like 70-90k miles so plan on changing out the timing belt real soon if you go the TT route.
What is the market price of a used honda civic LX 06?
What is the market price of a used honda civic LX 06? I know Kelly Blue Book is one way to check it, but is there other ways?
Anyone bought a used honda before and can give me some ideas?
Btw, is KBB accrate enough? Coz based on my research, KBB seems to have overstated the value of cars.
Any opinion would be appreciated! Thank you!What is the market price of a used honda civic LX 06?
where did you do research on kbb?What is the market price of a used honda civic LX 06?
12k. KBB is fairly accurate, it sometimes over estimaes.
Anyone bought a used honda before and can give me some ideas?
Btw, is KBB accrate enough? Coz based on my research, KBB seems to have overstated the value of cars.
Any opinion would be appreciated! Thank you!What is the market price of a used honda civic LX 06?
where did you do research on kbb?What is the market price of a used honda civic LX 06?
12k. KBB is fairly accurate, it sometimes over estimaes.
New car purchase/trade in value dealer negotiation?
First off, I know new car dealers try to stick it to you when you buy a new/trade in a pre-owned vehicle. However, is there any advantage to this scenario?:
I have a car loan where I still owe $9000. My car KBB is $9000 and CarMax will give me this much if I sell it to them. If I take my car to a dealer and offer it as a trade in, showing them the $9000 offer from CarMax, they will usually accept it. However, if I try to negotiate with the dealer to get $10,000 ($1000 more than I owe on the loan) and tell the new car dealer that I will use this $1000 as "down payment" on a new car, is this a useful strategy to negotiate? I mean does the $1000 above cost to pay off the loan provide the dealer with any incentive to offer me more than what I owe if I will then turn around and "give" that $1000 to the dealer toward a new car purchase?New car purchase/trade in value dealer negotiation?
Actually, if your dealer gives you the same amount as CarMax will buy the car for, you already have a better deal. You pay sales tax on the trade difference.
Here is how it works. If you buy a car for 20,000, and sales tax is 7%, your sales tax is $1,400. If you get 9000 for your trade in, you pay sales tax on $11,000, or $770. So, by trading your car in, YOU are already saving $630.
And your example is also not making a lot of sense. Why would the dealer give you an extra $1000 for your car if you were not buying a car from him? It is his own $1000 dollars he is giving you. Who cares if you give it back to him to purchase a car? He is still losing $1000 unless you let him charge you an extra 1000 for the car you are buying.
There is absolutely NO incentive to give you 1000 more for your car other than if he wants to make a car deal. It means nothing to the dealer if you apply it to your new car or not.
PS - it is also known that when you buy a new car and trade in a used car, you try to stick it to the dealer.. of course when YOU do it you are simply a smart consumer electing to negotiate the best deal possible... when the dealer does it he is a money grubbing scumbag, and not a responsible business owner trying to make a profit and provide for the dozens of employees he is responsible for or his own family, right?New car purchase/trade in value dealer negotiation?
I sold cars for 2 years if they give you 10 for the trade it is because they have enough room in the car you are looking at to give it to you what they actually give you for the car is less, they are just moving figures around, also check to make sure they do not have incentives they are keeping like 1000 off or 2000 off, stay away from 3000.00 guarantee trade push pull or drag they are making money no doubt about it they are just good at moving numbers so you think you are getting a good deal, sell it your self for 10 then go with 1000 down and negotiate the price off the sticker price.
I have a car loan where I still owe $9000. My car KBB is $9000 and CarMax will give me this much if I sell it to them. If I take my car to a dealer and offer it as a trade in, showing them the $9000 offer from CarMax, they will usually accept it. However, if I try to negotiate with the dealer to get $10,000 ($1000 more than I owe on the loan) and tell the new car dealer that I will use this $1000 as "down payment" on a new car, is this a useful strategy to negotiate? I mean does the $1000 above cost to pay off the loan provide the dealer with any incentive to offer me more than what I owe if I will then turn around and "give" that $1000 to the dealer toward a new car purchase?New car purchase/trade in value dealer negotiation?
Actually, if your dealer gives you the same amount as CarMax will buy the car for, you already have a better deal. You pay sales tax on the trade difference.
Here is how it works. If you buy a car for 20,000, and sales tax is 7%, your sales tax is $1,400. If you get 9000 for your trade in, you pay sales tax on $11,000, or $770. So, by trading your car in, YOU are already saving $630.
And your example is also not making a lot of sense. Why would the dealer give you an extra $1000 for your car if you were not buying a car from him? It is his own $1000 dollars he is giving you. Who cares if you give it back to him to purchase a car? He is still losing $1000 unless you let him charge you an extra 1000 for the car you are buying.
There is absolutely NO incentive to give you 1000 more for your car other than if he wants to make a car deal. It means nothing to the dealer if you apply it to your new car or not.
PS - it is also known that when you buy a new car and trade in a used car, you try to stick it to the dealer.. of course when YOU do it you are simply a smart consumer electing to negotiate the best deal possible... when the dealer does it he is a money grubbing scumbag, and not a responsible business owner trying to make a profit and provide for the dozens of employees he is responsible for or his own family, right?New car purchase/trade in value dealer negotiation?
I sold cars for 2 years if they give you 10 for the trade it is because they have enough room in the car you are looking at to give it to you what they actually give you for the car is less, they are just moving figures around, also check to make sure they do not have incentives they are keeping like 1000 off or 2000 off, stay away from 3000.00 guarantee trade push pull or drag they are making money no doubt about it they are just good at moving numbers so you think you are getting a good deal, sell it your self for 10 then go with 1000 down and negotiate the price off the sticker price.
Buying a used car (2004 Toyota Camry) in west Los Angeles area -- advice?
So my husband's car was stolen and we need a new car, but we're not desperate. We want to buy now; it's the end of the month and the end of the fiscal year. We went online, looked up edmunds.com, kbb.com and nada.com and got the book value so we knew where to start -- I know to deal up, not down. I've bought two cars before this one, from this same dealership, so I'm not a newbie.
Then we figured in tax/title/license, LoJack, plus dealer commission. The 2004 Toyota Camry we want was priced at $12,995, and we asked $11,600+/-. This was the second time we went to the dealership and they wouldn't budge.
I took the median between clean trade in and retail for my starting point for a starting book price of around $9700, then added in TTL, LoJack, plus commission, so I gave a little bit. They said sorry to waste your time! We walked out again. My husband and I were appalled at our treatment.
For those who are curious, this was Marina Del Rey Toyota, where I bought two vehicles before. We want to pay cash and write them a check. We need a car; they have cars to sell. So what's the problem? I am as of this moment no longer a loyal customer to MDR Toyota in Marina Del Rey in greater Los Angeles.
Anything I'm doing wrong? Anything I'm overlooking? Any advice would be appreciated. ThanksBuying a used car (2004 Toyota Camry) in west Los Angeles area -- advice?
Check is there any recalls on the car on 2004 onwards on toyota problems.Buying a used car (2004 Toyota Camry) in west Los Angeles area -- advice?
They did you a favor. Why would you want to pay $11,600 for an 8 year old Camry when they go for $8000?????
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresu鈥?/a>
But if you got $12k in cash, buy a new car. You can buy a Corolla or Civic for less than $14.nada bluebook
Then we figured in tax/title/license, LoJack, plus dealer commission. The 2004 Toyota Camry we want was priced at $12,995, and we asked $11,600+/-. This was the second time we went to the dealership and they wouldn't budge.
I took the median between clean trade in and retail for my starting point for a starting book price of around $9700, then added in TTL, LoJack, plus commission, so I gave a little bit. They said sorry to waste your time! We walked out again. My husband and I were appalled at our treatment.
For those who are curious, this was Marina Del Rey Toyota, where I bought two vehicles before. We want to pay cash and write them a check. We need a car; they have cars to sell. So what's the problem? I am as of this moment no longer a loyal customer to MDR Toyota in Marina Del Rey in greater Los Angeles.
Anything I'm doing wrong? Anything I'm overlooking? Any advice would be appreciated. ThanksBuying a used car (2004 Toyota Camry) in west Los Angeles area -- advice?
Check is there any recalls on the car on 2004 onwards on toyota problems.Buying a used car (2004 Toyota Camry) in west Los Angeles area -- advice?
They did you a favor. Why would you want to pay $11,600 for an 8 year old Camry when they go for $8000?????
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresu鈥?/a>
But if you got $12k in cash, buy a new car. You can buy a Corolla or Civic for less than $14.
My car lease is about to expire. I like it but is it a mistake to buy it for the payoff amount?
The buy-out option is $14k. It's a 2003 WRX with 36K miles only, and it's been great. I wouldn't mind just keeping it. The guys at the car dealer though, want me to lease or buy a new car. I think they're biased though, since kbb.com says they would turn around and sell my car for over $20k, plus get more money from selling me another car. I know it is dumb of me to lease and consider buying instead of just buying it in the first place, but it's too late to look at it that way now. I'm looking at it like I have no car, and I could buy a great used car for about $6000 less than a dealer would charge. Plus private party value is $16.5K. So is that a reasonable decision or would I be making a big mistake?My car lease is about to expire. I like it but is it a mistake to buy it for the payoff amount?
If you have maintained the car well, and you enjoy it, then re-negotiate the purchase price and buy it.
If it has been a problematic car, or you are ready for a change. Then, BUY a new car. Don't lease again because chances are you will be in this dilema again.
By the way, if you do end up buying this car, negotiate with the dealer an extended warranty.
Extended warranties should only be bought when the MFG's warranty is about to expire and you plan on keeping the car for long.
Sounds like you should definitely take the buy-out option. Even if you turned around and bought a car you'd probably get more than $14K trade-in.
Is there a CarMax near you? If so, take your car to them and get them to give you a written offer for it. If they offer more than $14K, then even if you decide to buy another car you're still better off buying out the lease.My car lease is about to expire. I like it but is it a mistake to buy it for the payoff amount?
Blue book is important as a base value. You also have to remember that the value of a car to a dealer is not the same as the value of a car to you. If you are buying a used car, whose history you are totally familiar with, then it is much better than buying a used car from some place and discovering a slew of problems later on.
The car will always be valuable to you as long as it works. You know more about your leased car than most anyone else. Is it worth holding onto? Will it hold it's value? Is the cost of repairs prohitively expensive? Does it use too much gas? Does it have rrom for the kids or future kids? Will it support all of the functions that you would typically use a transport vehicle for?
What I would do would be to re-lease a new car. Why have a depreciating model that is worth less than 14k after you pay it off? then you are stuck with all the failures that are associated with the Subaru. If you lease a new model, and the trans goes out, they pay.. if you purchase the one you have, you pay.. its kind of like insurance.. you pay a lease fee so you dont have to pay for maintenance.. once you own it, it is up to you...
Think of it this way... The car you have is used and is a few years old..The new cars have more power and all of the things they created now (after 2-3 years) have all of the bugs and kinks taken out of it. So the newer one would get better gas mileage as well as better handling and performance. Never buy something that just came out, wait a few years and let others be your test drivers as well as if there is any flaws, they get fixed before you commit to a vehicle.My car lease is about to expire. I like it but is it a mistake to buy it for the payoff amount?
the end of lease purchase is negotiable, they really o not want the car either, try to come in low.
if the buyout is 14k and the car is worth 16.k, and you like it, I say buy it.
If you have maintained the car well, and you enjoy it, then re-negotiate the purchase price and buy it.
If it has been a problematic car, or you are ready for a change. Then, BUY a new car. Don't lease again because chances are you will be in this dilema again.
By the way, if you do end up buying this car, negotiate with the dealer an extended warranty.
Extended warranties should only be bought when the MFG's warranty is about to expire and you plan on keeping the car for long.
Sounds like you should definitely take the buy-out option. Even if you turned around and bought a car you'd probably get more than $14K trade-in.
Is there a CarMax near you? If so, take your car to them and get them to give you a written offer for it. If they offer more than $14K, then even if you decide to buy another car you're still better off buying out the lease.My car lease is about to expire. I like it but is it a mistake to buy it for the payoff amount?
Blue book is important as a base value. You also have to remember that the value of a car to a dealer is not the same as the value of a car to you. If you are buying a used car, whose history you are totally familiar with, then it is much better than buying a used car from some place and discovering a slew of problems later on.
The car will always be valuable to you as long as it works. You know more about your leased car than most anyone else. Is it worth holding onto? Will it hold it's value? Is the cost of repairs prohitively expensive? Does it use too much gas? Does it have rrom for the kids or future kids? Will it support all of the functions that you would typically use a transport vehicle for?
What I would do would be to re-lease a new car. Why have a depreciating model that is worth less than 14k after you pay it off? then you are stuck with all the failures that are associated with the Subaru. If you lease a new model, and the trans goes out, they pay.. if you purchase the one you have, you pay.. its kind of like insurance.. you pay a lease fee so you dont have to pay for maintenance.. once you own it, it is up to you...
Think of it this way... The car you have is used and is a few years old..The new cars have more power and all of the things they created now (after 2-3 years) have all of the bugs and kinks taken out of it. So the newer one would get better gas mileage as well as better handling and performance. Never buy something that just came out, wait a few years and let others be your test drivers as well as if there is any flaws, they get fixed before you commit to a vehicle.My car lease is about to expire. I like it but is it a mistake to buy it for the payoff amount?
the end of lease purchase is negotiable, they really o not want the car either, try to come in low.
if the buyout is 14k and the car is worth 16.k, and you like it, I say buy it.
Do dealers ever take a car of higher value...?
for a less expensive car %26amp; pay the difference? I am guessing they probably don't but here's the thing. I have a clear title '02 honda that kbb says trade in value is 10,800. We are so beyond strapped for $ it's not funny %26amp; I really only use it around town so I'm thinking of selling the honda %26amp; getting an "around town" type older car for around 3 or 4K. The thought of selling it myself makes me nervous, I wish I could just take it somewhere %26amp; trade it for a cheaper car %26amp; get the diff. Would they laugh in my face if I asked this? I'd rather get laughed at online than at a car dealers ;-)Do dealers ever take a car of higher value...?
Your best bet is selling your car yourself, and then go to the dealer and buy the car with the money you got for selling your car. Private sellers (which is you) get more money then trading it in to a dealership, becasue of the cost of overhead and all.
I don't know of a single one...
best to sell that car outright---
dealers give far less than you can get for straight sale....Do dealers ever take a car of higher value...?
Sell it on Ebay. Its really simple and it works wonders. You would get the best possible deal with selling it yourself as opposed to a dealership. If you go thru a dealership, they won't give you that much for your car, they might give you $7,000 or something, they would mark it up to resell it for $11,000 so they can make a profit on it. I suggest selling it on ebay, or placing a local add and trying to sell it that way, then take the cash and go negotiate with a dealership, or check out the papers and see what you like.
i own a repair shop,and here's the deal,they,ll only pay trade in value for it,,because they can go to an auto auction and get one for way less than what kbb is,, this is only used as a guide to go by it don't actually mean all the cars they list on kbb book prices are worth that much,and they sure wont buy one strait out for kbb price,and on a trade i doubt they would do an even trade for an equal car either,dealers are smart when it comes to buying and selling a car.but you could try,but you wouldn't be happy with what the offered you for it,god luck if you do decide to do this,i hope this help,s.Do dealers ever take a car of higher value...?
Yes,it's not that uncommon. I do it at least a couple of times a year. I just have to cut back a check to the customer for the difference.
eBay is probably the way to go. I just sold a car and got the reserve price that I was looking for, which was almost twice as much as the trade-in value.
Here's some tips....
Check how much similar cars have sold for on ebay. To do this, go to search and click "Completed auctions."
Pay extra for "Featured listing." It's well worth the $19 or so. I am positive that this helped me get the price I wanted.
Pay extra for professional listing, such as CarAD. Not only is your listing better presented, you can add up to 35 pictures with ease.
After you get the cash, you can then go shopping for a cheaper car.
Yes they do. Not all that often, but it certainly does happen.
I sold cars many years ago. My first week on the job, a woman came into the Buick dealership I was working at with a nearly new Jensen Interceptor -- a gift from her ex-boyfriend. She traded it for a used Olds Cutlass and a check for over $10,000. Even at that, I had my largest gross profit deal of my career and made over $2,000.00 commission on that sale alone.
She never did say why she broke up with her ex. But we did have fun "christening" the Jensen when she picked up the Olds. :)
Your best bet is selling your car yourself, and then go to the dealer and buy the car with the money you got for selling your car. Private sellers (which is you) get more money then trading it in to a dealership, becasue of the cost of overhead and all.
I don't know of a single one...
best to sell that car outright---
dealers give far less than you can get for straight sale....Do dealers ever take a car of higher value...?
Sell it on Ebay. Its really simple and it works wonders. You would get the best possible deal with selling it yourself as opposed to a dealership. If you go thru a dealership, they won't give you that much for your car, they might give you $7,000 or something, they would mark it up to resell it for $11,000 so they can make a profit on it. I suggest selling it on ebay, or placing a local add and trying to sell it that way, then take the cash and go negotiate with a dealership, or check out the papers and see what you like.
i own a repair shop,and here's the deal,they,ll only pay trade in value for it,,because they can go to an auto auction and get one for way less than what kbb is,, this is only used as a guide to go by it don't actually mean all the cars they list on kbb book prices are worth that much,and they sure wont buy one strait out for kbb price,and on a trade i doubt they would do an even trade for an equal car either,dealers are smart when it comes to buying and selling a car.but you could try,but you wouldn't be happy with what the offered you for it,god luck if you do decide to do this,i hope this help,s.Do dealers ever take a car of higher value...?
Yes,it's not that uncommon. I do it at least a couple of times a year. I just have to cut back a check to the customer for the difference.
eBay is probably the way to go. I just sold a car and got the reserve price that I was looking for, which was almost twice as much as the trade-in value.
Here's some tips....
Check how much similar cars have sold for on ebay. To do this, go to search and click "Completed auctions."
Pay extra for "Featured listing." It's well worth the $19 or so. I am positive that this helped me get the price I wanted.
Pay extra for professional listing, such as CarAD. Not only is your listing better presented, you can add up to 35 pictures with ease.
After you get the cash, you can then go shopping for a cheaper car.
Yes they do. Not all that often, but it certainly does happen.
I sold cars many years ago. My first week on the job, a woman came into the Buick dealership I was working at with a nearly new Jensen Interceptor -- a gift from her ex-boyfriend. She traded it for a used Olds Cutlass and a check for over $10,000. Even at that, I had my largest gross profit deal of my career and made over $2,000.00 commission on that sale alone.
She never did say why she broke up with her ex. But we did have fun "christening" the Jensen when she picked up the Olds. :)
Where to find seat belt track cover and other small random interior car parts?
i recently purchased a used car...excellent shape, low mileage and clean CarFax...and i got a great price on it, about $8,000 below the KBB value...
there are a few minor cosmetic issues on the interior of the car...the piece of plastic that covers the top of the seat belt on a seat in the back is missing and so is a piece of plastic on the drivers seat where the seatbelt feeds in to the drivers seat...
i know, these are minor things that do not affect the running of the car but i would like to have them replaced. i have looked on different parts websites but i cant really find what im looking for...
does anyone know of a site that i can go to and be able to specifically click on the part that i need (like a diagram) so that i know im ordering the right part...
thanks...
oh, and the car is a 2007 Chrysler Aspen....Where to find seat belt track cover and other small random interior car parts?
I would call a few junkyards, you should be able to find some in the phone book at tell them what you need. I have also had good luck getting those kind of parts on ebay, although sometimes they are hard to find because you dont know what they are called!Where to find seat belt track cover and other small random interior car parts?
You have two options. Go to a wrecking yard and check it out. Take your vin {serial number}. to a Dodge dealer, and ask to see their parts listings. Good luck!
there are a few minor cosmetic issues on the interior of the car...the piece of plastic that covers the top of the seat belt on a seat in the back is missing and so is a piece of plastic on the drivers seat where the seatbelt feeds in to the drivers seat...
i know, these are minor things that do not affect the running of the car but i would like to have them replaced. i have looked on different parts websites but i cant really find what im looking for...
does anyone know of a site that i can go to and be able to specifically click on the part that i need (like a diagram) so that i know im ordering the right part...
thanks...
oh, and the car is a 2007 Chrysler Aspen....Where to find seat belt track cover and other small random interior car parts?
I would call a few junkyards, you should be able to find some in the phone book at tell them what you need. I have also had good luck getting those kind of parts on ebay, although sometimes they are hard to find because you dont know what they are called!Where to find seat belt track cover and other small random interior car parts?
You have two options. Go to a wrecking yard and check it out. Take your vin {serial number}. to a Dodge dealer, and ask to see their parts listings. Good luck!
Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
Hey Folks, so im in the market for a used car, I came across a 2007 Acura TL with Navigation for $16,900.. It only has 35,000 miles on it, however the title has been reconstructed. A tree branch apparently fell on the back of the car, damaging the windshield and roof of the car. The car has been put back together with new parts, and everything seemed to work, it drives fine.
It's being sold at a local used auto-body shop/dealership. The dealer is providing a 6 month warranty with the car. What are your thoughts, is the price too much? Should I stay away from this car? KBB values the car at 24,000 for suggested retail.Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
I think its sound good, I mean Im no expert but if the car didnt recieve any initial damage to the Engine then I dont see why buying a rebuilt 07 Acura TL would be a problem. It sounds like the only damge it recieved was to the roof line and windshield, I dont see how that will effect the way in which the car will drive or perform. These are the rebuilt titles people usually look for, it was not involved in an accident there for the car sounds like it remians the same as when first purchased. I would reccomend you take a look at the car for interior flaws seeing that they probably reconstructed the entire roof line, make sure to monitor that there are no leaks passing into the interior of the car when it rains. Make sure everything is sealed an proportioned correctly, also inspect the back doors, if the roof line caved in it might be possible that the doors may not open or close correctly, they may become stuck once in a while when opened if the roof line was not contructed or installed correctly. Other then that I dont see why buying this particular car would be a problem, it sounds good to me. I would suggest you negotiate the price aswell. Also be aware that Rebuilt titles cause the car to depreciate faster in time compared to an 2007 Acura TL with a clean title.Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
I would consider against buying a car with a rebuilt or salvage title. The title itself is the reason why this car was in the sub 17k whereas this car would wind up 25k . I have shopped for a used TL in the market and have stumbled across many with rebuilt title, or salvage. I strongly stay away from them although sometimes these cars have very minor, mostly non-mechanical issues.
The price is reasonable for this car, even with the rebuilt title (I have seen Acura TL's with the same title sell for even 20k at times) . But for the sake for resale and overall "curb appeal" of the car, I would stay away from this rebuilt title.
You might spend more for a car that is with a clean title, but it is worth it. Its all like the badging with cars, like a loaded Toyota Camry XLE would be equally as luxurious as a base Lexus ES, but it is because of the Lexus badge that the Lexus would have appeal.
It all comes to your opinion and decision. Mechanically, the car seems sound, so that isn't a problem.
Thanks, and Good Luck on your car buying :)Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
Never pay more than 50% of retail for a branded title. EVER.
If you want to give it a go, have an independent body shop (preferrably at an Acura dealership) inspect it to be sure that it was repaired to factory specifications. Then see if Acura have voided the warranty on it; many manufacturers will void a warranty when a branded title is issued. (A 2007 with those miles should still have some factory warranty remaining.)
The problem with a rebuilt wreck is that it's relatively cheap and easy to make it *look* good but very difficult and costly to actually restore it to factory condition. This can be critical in the case of an accident. Just as a for-instance, many body parts are tack welded together in order to provide for controlled crush and deformation in case of a crash. If the repair is done with a continuous seam weld it may not deform properly in a wreck and that can result in much higher forces being transferred to the vehicle occupants. What was engineered to be a survivable wreck could become a fatality.
If it all checks out, and if you can get it for 50% of Blue Book or less, keep in mind that it will always have a branded title and will always be worth MUCH less if you try to trade it or sell it later. Unless you're planning on driving it until the wheels fall off, you may well be very disappointed down the road.
It's being sold at a local used auto-body shop/dealership. The dealer is providing a 6 month warranty with the car. What are your thoughts, is the price too much? Should I stay away from this car? KBB values the car at 24,000 for suggested retail.Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
I think its sound good, I mean Im no expert but if the car didnt recieve any initial damage to the Engine then I dont see why buying a rebuilt 07 Acura TL would be a problem. It sounds like the only damge it recieved was to the roof line and windshield, I dont see how that will effect the way in which the car will drive or perform. These are the rebuilt titles people usually look for, it was not involved in an accident there for the car sounds like it remians the same as when first purchased. I would reccomend you take a look at the car for interior flaws seeing that they probably reconstructed the entire roof line, make sure to monitor that there are no leaks passing into the interior of the car when it rains. Make sure everything is sealed an proportioned correctly, also inspect the back doors, if the roof line caved in it might be possible that the doors may not open or close correctly, they may become stuck once in a while when opened if the roof line was not contructed or installed correctly. Other then that I dont see why buying this particular car would be a problem, it sounds good to me. I would suggest you negotiate the price aswell. Also be aware that Rebuilt titles cause the car to depreciate faster in time compared to an 2007 Acura TL with a clean title.Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
I would consider against buying a car with a rebuilt or salvage title. The title itself is the reason why this car was in the sub 17k whereas this car would wind up 25k . I have shopped for a used TL in the market and have stumbled across many with rebuilt title, or salvage. I strongly stay away from them although sometimes these cars have very minor, mostly non-mechanical issues.
The price is reasonable for this car, even with the rebuilt title (I have seen Acura TL's with the same title sell for even 20k at times) . But for the sake for resale and overall "curb appeal" of the car, I would stay away from this rebuilt title.
You might spend more for a car that is with a clean title, but it is worth it. Its all like the badging with cars, like a loaded Toyota Camry XLE would be equally as luxurious as a base Lexus ES, but it is because of the Lexus badge that the Lexus would have appeal.
It all comes to your opinion and decision. Mechanically, the car seems sound, so that isn't a problem.
Thanks, and Good Luck on your car buying :)Considering a reconstructed title Acura TL?
Never pay more than 50% of retail for a branded title. EVER.
If you want to give it a go, have an independent body shop (preferrably at an Acura dealership) inspect it to be sure that it was repaired to factory specifications. Then see if Acura have voided the warranty on it; many manufacturers will void a warranty when a branded title is issued. (A 2007 with those miles should still have some factory warranty remaining.)
The problem with a rebuilt wreck is that it's relatively cheap and easy to make it *look* good but very difficult and costly to actually restore it to factory condition. This can be critical in the case of an accident. Just as a for-instance, many body parts are tack welded together in order to provide for controlled crush and deformation in case of a crash. If the repair is done with a continuous seam weld it may not deform properly in a wreck and that can result in much higher forces being transferred to the vehicle occupants. What was engineered to be a survivable wreck could become a fatality.
If it all checks out, and if you can get it for 50% of Blue Book or less, keep in mind that it will always have a branded title and will always be worth MUCH less if you try to trade it or sell it later. Unless you're planning on driving it until the wheels fall off, you may well be very disappointed down the road.
What's the best way to get out of my car loan?
I have a 2006 Scion xB with about 22k miles. KBB value is $14,800. I still owe about $13,600 on it. My car payments are $400 a month (I know, I know, my interest rate is ridiculous...) so I want to sell the car, pay off the bank, and go car-less for a couple of months until I can save up a couple of thousand dollars to buy a used car in cash. I live in NYC so not having a car for a few months wouldn't be a big deal. I would like to sell the car quickly, so I was thinking about taking it to a dealership and seeing how much they would offer me for the car if I didn't buy one from them. What do you think? I'd rather not deal with the hassle of selling it privately.What's the best way to get out of my car loan?
You won't do very good with a dealer.Maybe you could check and see if there is a car lot that will take it on consignment to sell for you.You would have to pay a fee of course but it would save you having to deal with selling it yourself.
They don't really pay off your loan.They pay it off but it gets added to your financing on the new car so nope your out of luck there.What's the best way to get out of my car loan?
Unfortunately KBB is not a valid number for anyone, it tends to be too high, and the dealer won't offer anything near that figure. Despite the hassle, your best bet is going to be a private sale.
The dealer will offer in the $11,250 range, leaving you with $2.350 to pay off.What's the best way to get out of my car loan?
pay it offhelly hansen
You won't do very good with a dealer.Maybe you could check and see if there is a car lot that will take it on consignment to sell for you.You would have to pay a fee of course but it would save you having to deal with selling it yourself.
They don't really pay off your loan.They pay it off but it gets added to your financing on the new car so nope your out of luck there.What's the best way to get out of my car loan?
Unfortunately KBB is not a valid number for anyone, it tends to be too high, and the dealer won't offer anything near that figure. Despite the hassle, your best bet is going to be a private sale.
The dealer will offer in the $11,250 range, leaving you with $2.350 to pay off.What's the best way to get out of my car loan?
pay it off
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Car from hertz car sales ?
has anyone bought a used car from hertz car sales ? they sell cars which are around 1 to 2 years old, and dont have much mileage on them, well taken care of ( supposedly ), i visited one of these dealers, i liked a mazda 2007 , 28 K miles, for under 13K, is it worth ? the car was nice to drive and look and i really liked it, but people have been discouraging me from going for a rental car, ... what all should i look out for ? should one buy a rental car ? would i be able to resell it ? what can i expect to get after say two years ? the kbb value is around 16500, am i paying the right money ? i havent checked the car fax yet.Car from hertz car sales ?
Your Answer:
That's a good deal on the Mazda. Buying a previous rental is a very good bargain and the cars in in excellent shape. Rental agencies must keep their cars in prime shape because of the heavy liability they'd face if something should happen to a customer while driving their cars. So that can't take any chances that their cars might break down or create a hazardous situation. They perform regular maintenance religiously.
Check the car fax report and take it for a test drive before deciding. Make sure all the accessories work, such as the power windows, a/c and cruise control, if it has these features. Check the brakes too by making a normal start. Do you feel any pulsation in the pedal? Does the pedal drop too low?
How about the transmission? Does it upshift smoothly? Or does it lurch or hold the gear too long? Does it downshift smoothly? What about the engine? Does it shake the car or does it idle smoothly?
You shouldn't have any problem with the car. Rental companies take better care of their cars than most individuals do. As for what it's worth in two years, nobody can answer that. The market is very vulnerable right now. The bottom has fallen out of used car prices. Just two years ago, they were at their strongest market value. Where they will be in two years from now is anybody's guess. The market may strengthen by then. But since you'll be buying it under book, you'll do just fine. Car from hertz car sales ?
Most people thrash rental cars. They're maintained regularly, but go back to my first sentence.
Your Answer:
That's a good deal on the Mazda. Buying a previous rental is a very good bargain and the cars in in excellent shape. Rental agencies must keep their cars in prime shape because of the heavy liability they'd face if something should happen to a customer while driving their cars. So that can't take any chances that their cars might break down or create a hazardous situation. They perform regular maintenance religiously.
Check the car fax report and take it for a test drive before deciding. Make sure all the accessories work, such as the power windows, a/c and cruise control, if it has these features. Check the brakes too by making a normal start. Do you feel any pulsation in the pedal? Does the pedal drop too low?
How about the transmission? Does it upshift smoothly? Or does it lurch or hold the gear too long? Does it downshift smoothly? What about the engine? Does it shake the car or does it idle smoothly?
You shouldn't have any problem with the car. Rental companies take better care of their cars than most individuals do. As for what it's worth in two years, nobody can answer that. The market is very vulnerable right now. The bottom has fallen out of used car prices. Just two years ago, they were at their strongest market value. Where they will be in two years from now is anybody's guess. The market may strengthen by then. But since you'll be buying it under book, you'll do just fine. Car from hertz car sales ?
Most people thrash rental cars. They're maintained regularly, but go back to my first sentence.
Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
Luckily, this question is just hypothetical. My car is fine. But having just paid big bux to insure it, I'm wondering which blue book value my insurer would use to determine how much to pay in event of a claim.
KBB.com has a trade-in, private party and dealer rate, in order from low to high, and they differ by a few thousand dollars. Also, would insurers take my word for the condition the car was in or do they always assume Good condition?Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
The adjuster will come and look at the car, and draw conclusions that way. Even if it's wrecked, he will know the condition it was in before the wreck.
They have their own book of rates they use, which is more an actual cash value (not replacement value) at the time of the loss.
They will look at options you had, radio upgrades, the engine, things like that.Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
Total loss stettlement is based on current market value of the car, that is, what the buying public is willing to pay for it. NADA, Kelly, ADP, etc is used as a base then value for mileage is either deducted or added, condition, options, etc. Almost all insurance companies inspect the vehicle before determining value (hint -- try to keep it as clean as possible at all times. I can't tell you how many vehicles I have inspected with food stains on the interior, garbage in the trunk, missing wheelcover(s), decals plastered all over the back glass, etc. You may get an inspector that isn't as generous as I am!)Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
i own a repair shop,and have had a lot of dealings with insurance company's,they will go by the lowest book value that they can find on a claim to save money,but usually there pretty fair about it in most cases about the amount they pay out on a claim,but in some cases they do go low on there estimates,,good luck i hope this help,s.
They don't use blue book. They settle based on actual cash value, which is how much you could buy that same vehicle for in the marketplace, which is not necessarily what you'll find in the blue book. Unfortunately, you'll only know what that value is when you have an accident and the damages are assessed with the condition.
KBB.com has a trade-in, private party and dealer rate, in order from low to high, and they differ by a few thousand dollars. Also, would insurers take my word for the condition the car was in or do they always assume Good condition?Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
The adjuster will come and look at the car, and draw conclusions that way. Even if it's wrecked, he will know the condition it was in before the wreck.
They have their own book of rates they use, which is more an actual cash value (not replacement value) at the time of the loss.
They will look at options you had, radio upgrades, the engine, things like that.Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
Total loss stettlement is based on current market value of the car, that is, what the buying public is willing to pay for it. NADA, Kelly, ADP, etc is used as a base then value for mileage is either deducted or added, condition, options, etc. Almost all insurance companies inspect the vehicle before determining value (hint -- try to keep it as clean as possible at all times. I can't tell you how many vehicles I have inspected with food stains on the interior, garbage in the trunk, missing wheelcover(s), decals plastered all over the back glass, etc. You may get an inspector that isn't as generous as I am!)Which value is used by auto insurers paying a claim?
i own a repair shop,and have had a lot of dealings with insurance company's,they will go by the lowest book value that they can find on a claim to save money,but usually there pretty fair about it in most cases about the amount they pay out on a claim,but in some cases they do go low on there estimates,,good luck i hope this help,s.
They don't use blue book. They settle based on actual cash value, which is how much you could buy that same vehicle for in the marketplace, which is not necessarily what you'll find in the blue book. Unfortunately, you'll only know what that value is when you have an accident and the damages are assessed with the condition.
Can I get a signature loan and use my car as collateral if it has a lien on it.?
can OI get a signature loan for $4,000 and use my car as collateral if I borrowed $16,000 for the car and put $5,500 down and its KBB value is $28,500?Can I get a signature loan and use my car as collateral if it has a lien on it.?
You have to own the car outright before you can use it as collateral. If it has a lien then a lender will not accept it as collateral even if you "figure" that the car is worth more than the lien.
(And by the way, I have no idea what the other guy is talking about when he says you have a "lion". Nobody would want to go near a car that had a lion on it. That would be suicidal.)
No bank will loan money on a car with a lien on it. You must have the paid off title. Not even a title loan place will loan you money on it. One idea is to find a person who will loan you $4000 and take a 2nd lien on it. Good luck...Can I get a signature loan and use my car as collateral if it has a lien on it.?
No i think they pretty much want u to have the title in hand, better yet call and ask.
I'm going to guess you meant lion and no, it would not be realistic for someone to accept a car with a lion on it as collateral.Can I get a signature loan and use my car as collateral if it has a lien on it.?
I love lions on cars!
You have to own the car outright before you can use it as collateral. If it has a lien then a lender will not accept it as collateral even if you "figure" that the car is worth more than the lien.
(And by the way, I have no idea what the other guy is talking about when he says you have a "lion". Nobody would want to go near a car that had a lion on it. That would be suicidal.)
No bank will loan money on a car with a lien on it. You must have the paid off title. Not even a title loan place will loan you money on it. One idea is to find a person who will loan you $4000 and take a 2nd lien on it. Good luck...Can I get a signature loan and use my car as collateral if it has a lien on it.?
No i think they pretty much want u to have the title in hand, better yet call and ask.
I'm going to guess you meant lion and no, it would not be realistic for someone to accept a car with a lion on it as collateral.Can I get a signature loan and use my car as collateral if it has a lien on it.?
I love lions on cars!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)