Thursday, January 19, 2012

Trade In A Car For Another Car?

I have a car to trade in that is 4 years old with 84,000 miles. says it's trade-in value is $24,500. I am looking at another car for around $21,000.

Can you guys explain to me how this works? Will I trade in the $24,500 car and get the $21,000 car plus $4,500? Or do I take out a loan? Can you even trade in a car for another used car?

Thanks.Trade In A Car For Another Car?
DO NOT tell the dealer that has the car you want that the car you are looking to get is less than your trade in. Don't tell them you are certain you are trading in your car first. Tell them you already have financing approved through your bank and that you want to test drive this new car. Then negotiate that car alone. If they ask if you will be trading in, tell them you are not sure, but you want to worry about only one thing at a time. Try to negotiate much lower than they are wanting for that new one. Then once you have came up to a good agreement on that, say you would like to see what they will give you for your trade in, just to see. They will come back lower than 24500. Tell them you already checked it out on KBB and you came up with 25000 and there is no way you will let it go for less. They will probably tell you they go by NADA, so check out the trade in on there too. I also look at Edmunds just to have all three adn I print them out and bring them with me in a folder so you can say RIGHT HERE..

If there is any left over, they will cut you a check you can take to your bank although they will do their damnedest to not have any extra. Also, have your trade in clean and looking nice when you bring it up there.Trade In A Car For Another Car?
It is all up to the dealer you work with, and they're always and only looking for their own advantage.

Should I sell my car?

I have a 1996 nissan 200sx in pretty good condition. On it says it can sell for about $2300 after I fix the alternator, which I believe would cost around $300, and if the car has a clean history. The car has had a minor fender bender in the past and has failed 2 smog checks, but all the problems were fixed. I am not sure if this means that the car does not have a clean history, and if not, I am not sure how much this would affect the resale value of the car. Other than the alternator I'd say the car runs fine right now, but since it is an old car, I don't know how long it will be until I need another major repair. The car has 135,000 miles on it, has never had its clutch replaced, and it has beat up looking shocks. That's what I know to keep an eye on as of right now, but those things seem to be ok so far. I have an opportunity to get a solid $1500 for the car, as is, if I am willing to sell it soon. I am not sure if I should though. Also, I do not have the money to fix the alternator yet, and if I don't sell it, I am not sure when I will be able to get it fixed, but at the same time, I do not want to possibly get ripped off either by just selling it for just $1500, or possibly by buying another newer used car in the future that might have problems that I couldn't catch before buying it. Is it worth it to keep the car, or would you sell it?Should I sell my car?
16 year old nissanis worth about a grand.its not cherry or even in good shape/damaged etc

1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?

They want 1500 for it and its in great condition but the only thing thats got me is the mileage. 170,000 miles is alot. Do you think this would be okay as a beginner car?

Kellys Blue Book:鈥?/a>1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
I bought my Accord with 11,000 miles on it and it has been the worst car I've ever owned...maybe you can look at some other makes. I think Honda's are all hype and not really as good as the reported information. I can't wait to get rid of my Accord

Be Careful!
I would offer no more than $1000-1200. This car has almost no trade-in value when you decide to upgrade in several years. It has no redeeming qualities except it's good on gas mileage and would be appropriate for in-the-neighborhood trips. I wouldn't take it on a long road trip because of the wear and tear on the vehicle.1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
eh, honestly i think it's too expensive. my brother got a 93 civic for his first car last year with 210k miles on it for like $100 and it's been running fine. i think it really just depends on how much you like it and how bad you want it in addition to how much you're willing to spend on it.
Offer 1200.1995 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles?
it should be fine my 96 accord has 240k and still runs like a champ
  • helly hansen
  • Should I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?

    Car: 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse FWD, Non-Turbo

    Bought it for $1400 a week ago, ran good, new clutch was installed

    Inexperienced son ruined the clutch, and probably the synchro for 1st and possibly 2nd gear.

    $550 for new clutch installed

    $400-500 for synchro kit, and $300-400 for labor: $700-$900 for new synchros.

    A used tranny wouldn't cost much more

    Could also use tires, and rear brakes, but to just get it working again it would cost $1250-1450.

    KBB value is $1100, but if everything worked right I could easily sell car for $1700-1800.

    Engine works fine (123,000 miles), and no other problems with the car, only problem with parting it out is that nobody I know could take out an engine or remove body parts properly, so it would have to be self removial which would limit the customers, and also their money.

    Whats the value of this car with a bad clutch and tranny?

    How would I get max value out of this car with my situation? I can't pull a lot of major parts, ecspecially the ones that would get me the most money.Should I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
    I would part it out, craigslist or ebayShould I Sell or Part Out a 1992 Car?
    Call the salvage yards and see what they will give you for the car, my guess would be a couple of hundred at the most. Parting a car out is always problematic, this one isn't rare or in high demand so you aren't going to get a lot for the parts and you could be sitting on an eyesore for a year before your got enough money out of it to justify doing it in the first place. The only other option would be to just sell the car to someone who is willing to rebuild the trans and put a new clutch in it, you might get 500 for the car that way.

    How low to offer on a used 350z?

    Im in the market for a Nissan 350z (2003-2005) with the miles preferably below 60k, up to 80-90k max.

    I did some research on the topic and the average going price for them is anywhere from 9,5-13k mark up prices (yahoo autos,,

    Kelly blue book, edmunds both quote me in the $10,735 ; $9,298 [respectively] ballpark.

    My choice is very barely affected by the trim (base,enthusiast,track,etc) but mostly by cosmetics (how upkept is the interior? how is the paint/dings?) and obviously whether known issues were fixed.

    If i were to walk in to a dealership and lowball them with 9k would i have a chance? Is it a little too low to start? id be willing to go up to the 10k mark (even 11 if the car deserves it - a year up or top trim or really good condition, etc).

    Should i negotiate from 9k up in 100 increments? 200s? should i negotiate Sale price or TT out the door? (taxes%26amp;tags)

    There are known issues with the car {feathering, window motor breaking, rattling, transmission failure) - when such things are fixed, they are documented right? Where could i check if the dealer is honest about these issues having been fixed? should there be a document with all the fixes? (i dont know if the maintenance/oil change booklet would include these)

    Can i use the fact that its a sportscar/stick shift (im in new york)/tough gas times to be driving a car that uses premium only - as leverage? Would that be rude (or implied that the invoice/kbb value reflects this)?

    Please give as much advice as possibleHow low to offer on a used 350z?
    I dont know how many Datsun/ Nissan products you have bought in the past, but as an owner of many Skylines and Nissans over the years i can tell you they are great cars....

    As for the kelly blue book it really does not mean a lot- its what dealers quote from when they are taking your car as a trade in and that is about it.... I mean no disrespect to car dealers when i say that either, but personally it is my beleif that vehicles are sold for what the market will bear and what the market beleives the vehicle to be worth....

    All Nissan products are fantastic but you also must realise that you are buying a sports car that is second hand and so therefore there may be things you will need to repair or replace due to age or regular wear and tear.

    I am not sure how well you would go at negotiating with a dealer- generally dealers will negotiate but they also need to make a living.... If you dont like a dealers price then i suggest you look at an auto auction or a private sale.... But if you came to buy a car from me and started quoting the blue book and complaining about gas prices id probably suggest you head to your local BMW dealership, where you can argue blue book and gas prices with people who would see merit in these arguements.....

    Basically a 350z is a nice car and if you want one pay what you think its worth, but dealer or private, nobody really has a reason to take a low ball offer from you when it is a desireable vehicle. Good luck finding what you want man.How low to offer on a used 350z?
    Comapring dealerships and private sales, is ridiculous. They're two completely different markets. Different conditions, etc. Apples and oranges.

    And as a private seller, no, i don't "expect to lose at least 1k" from my prices.The fact that you think I should, is just insulting.

    If my car is worth $11k to me, it's worth $11k. Take your "haggling" elsewhere.How low to offer on a used 350z?
    "Can i use the fact that its a sportscar/stick shift (im in new york)/tough gas times to be driving a car that uses premium only - as leverage?"

    That's absurd. You know it's a sports car.

    If you wanted a fuel efficient car, go buy one. Seriously. If you showed up to buy a car from me, and then complained that it wasn't as fuel efficient as you wanted and you wanted a discount for it, I'd tell you to get the F--- off my property. You knew what you were looking at, when you saw the ad.

    That's like going to buy a boat, then complaining that it doesn't fly, and wanting a discount.

    "Would that be rude (or implied that the invoice/kbb value reflects this)?"

    Unless someone from KBB is with you, and appraising the car, their book has absolutely NOTHING to do with the value of the car.

    Ultimately, you can offer whatever you want. And the seller can say no. And ask you to leave. Which is what I do, everytime someone lowballs me.

    Think about it this way. Let's say you have a $11,000 car you're trying to sell. Would you want someone to come in, and immediately disrespect you and your business, by offering 20% less than the price tag?

    Hell no.

    Edit: I AM A DEALERSHIP, idiot.

    And no, it's not stupid that they mark the cars up. They cover tax and title, warranties, pre-sale inspection, etc. None of which you can get from a private seller. Of course we're going to mark up our prices. We offer more benefits.
    Its nearly impossible to advise you because I don't know anything about the real value of the cars you are looking at. And KBB %26amp; Edmund's are not very accurate at all.

    And "low balling" as in offering thousands below their asking price often just makes you look like a game-playing whack job who they wont want to waste time on.

    Check the Black Book values, condition is paramount, and then ad a reasonable profit. And that's the price you should target paying.

    Whats a reasonable profit ? On a $9000-13,000 car, I cant imagine any dealer selling it to you for less than $1500-2000 profit.

    Again, I cant stress how important condition is to a cars value.

    A clean car can easily be worth thousands more than an average car and maybe even double what a rough one would be worth.

    Warranties, if any, at a dealer are not FREE, they are added to the price of the car. (And 50-50 warranties are effectively worthless)

    There is no ballpark figure that most dealers will come down. And, I wouldn't be so quick to assume that every private party is willing to come down $1000. Some might, but they might not too.

    a $1000 discount from a dealer or even more MIGHT be possible depending on how "jacked up" their prices are to start with.

    Some places, like Carmax, do not negotiate. Its take it or leave it.

    Where to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?

    It is listed at a dealership for $28,988. On KBB trade in value is $22,650 for excellent, $21,550 for good and $19,600 for fair.

    On the carfax report it said this vehicle was a lease and the dealership bought it from an auction.

    So how low should I start my negotiating? Also I do plan on getting fincancing through the dealership, so does that give me more negotiating room? Since the dealership will make some $$ on me financing through them, should I make a lower offer?

    I have never bought a used car before, only new cars. Any input would greatly be appreciated.

    Thanks in advanceWhere to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
    I would offer 20,000 out-the-door, that includes tax, title and licensing. You need to figure out what you are willing to walk out paying for this vehicle, depending on how much you like it compared to others around the same price. So, if you want this vehicle and you are willing to pay 24,000 out-the-door then that shall be your Maximum amount, and you will not buy it for a penny more. With the max in mind, walk in and offer 21,000 OTD, they will say they can't do it, then ask for a business card, write your number phone number down on it and tell them that when they want to make a deal, have them call you.

    They will call you back and try to make another offer for you to buy it, which will probley be somewhere around 26.5k to 27k +tax title and license. Deny their offer, and remind them when they want to deal, call you and don't waist your time with crappy deals. Continue until you get want you want for it.

    You have a lot of leverage over them, especially due to the economy, gas prices, and your going for a vehicle that they have a hard time selling.

    Never settle for less, meaning, don't let them talk you into something else, and always be prepared to not get the vehicle. Keep the mentality that there are alot of Tahoe's out there, so finding one will not be a problem.

    Always start low, you can always come up in price.

    Hope that helps!
    Look around at other dealerships through and compare to other used vehicles if the vehicle has been on the market for a while see if they will take take 25,000 walk out which is including ttl. If not ask them what they can do for you.Where to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
    When I bought my truck, I went to my Credit Union/Bank first. I got pre-approved and got a check. And so then I went to the dealership and talked the guy down a couple of grand, because I had the cash/check in hand.

    AC/DC - MoneyTalks
    make a low offer you can always come up but never down id start at 19600 and go from there but never take there word for the condition take to your mechanic and see what he saysWhere to start my offer on a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe...?
    2007 Tahoe's are going for $23000 to $24000 at the auction right now. You will not pay trade in value for it you may pay private party value for the Tahoe. Most good dealers mark the car up at most $4000. Get your own financing that way the dealer does not have to worry about any financing fees if they have to try and get you approved. If I knew the miles and options I could be more accurate but you should be able to do $27000 out the door. Tell them you are going to your bank and ask for there best price so you can arrange your own financing.
    I would go no higher than $25k. Also you need to look at NADA that is what most dealers use. If you tell them the KBB price they'll laugh you out of the showroom.

    How much will I get if my car is totaled?

    I know this has been asked a lot on here, I've read the answers. My question, though, is which method do they use? Some say KBB value, other say it's based on the average of the value for similar vehicles for sale in your area. My car is a 2006 Kia Optima, in great condition (well, it was) with only 55,000 miles. The only other 06 Kia Optima for sale within 25 miles of my location is at the same dealership I got mine. It has the same features and 98,000+ miles on it and the asking price is $12,000. So which one can I bank on? KBB value is only $3-5000.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
    I've never seen an insurance company use KBB. Most of them use NADA (which is based on the retail price in your area), which will probably be a little less than KBB, because most people overestimate the condition of their vehicle when they are looking at KBB. 55k is a little high for mileage on a 2006, just so you know. Also, Kias drop in value pretty quickly.

    The $3-5000 range is where you will be, assuming there is not a lot of pre-existing damage.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
    KBB considers your ZIP Code in calculations. Car Dealers jack their prices to wheel %26amp; deal as much $$$ as possible. The Insurance Companies mostly Low-Ball as much as they can. I would expect $3000 unless you can convince them to honor your car's condition, then possibly $4000.How much will I get if my car is totaled?
    Almost all insurance companies use KBB value. I would expect to get the $3000-$5000 for the car. Sorry.